The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
After topping out the approach trail, hike right. Pass 4x4, and the thin cracks Hydraulic Pump and Crankcase and pass the long offwidth. This Unnamed route is another 75 or so yards on. The base of the route is loose with lots of small rocks. The climbing starts off a ledge right above the trail. Two bolts protect the beginning, although the first one is not very well placed and the second is a very hard clip. A stick clip has been used more than once. After the bolts, people who like protection people will want one more piece in before you reach the splitter.
The splitter starts thin off a ledge (just over an inch). These moves however are not as hard as they look, thanks to flares and footholds. The ensuing climb above, is sustained. The crack is MOSTLY 1.5" to 1.75" with a few flares, pods and more relieving jams to be found. After turning a roof and changing corners a hands free rest can be found before continuing on through more 1.75" sizes and finally an easier finish through thin hands and hand.
A 70m MIGHT get you back to the base. Definitely not a 60 though.
Protection
Disclaimer: I did not lead this. 2 quickdraws, possibly a stopper or other small cam, probably 1 or 2 one inch pieces, TONS of gear from 1.25" to 2", some red camalots and maybe a couple gold camalots.
Great climb- poorly placed bolts at start- use a stick-clip. Bring 5 #2 friends and 5 #1 camalots. A few .5 camalots for the start of the splitter, and a few 2.5 friends/ 2 camalots for wider sections throughout. 70 meter rope works perfect.
Stout for the grade, especially the face climbing. Don't fall clipping the second bolt, it would be ugly. Excellent route once you get to the real crack climbing. You could get by with 3 or 4 #1 Camalots plus the gear bheller suggested. Tight #2 Friends at the crux.
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