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4X4
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4 x 4 
Destination Paris 
Jimmy's Three Inch Weenie 
Linkage 
Marshmallow Safari 
Take 5 
Unnamed 
Unnamed 5.10 splitter 
Unnamed 5.10+ 
Unnamed 5.11 

Unnamed 5.11 

5.11c

   

FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, Sport
Length: 1 pitch, 120 feet
Views: 538 page views

Submitted By: Joel Hickok on Jun 20, 2004


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Description 

After topping out the approach trail, hike right. Pass 4x4, and the thin cracks Hydraulic Pump and Crankcase and pass the long offwidth. This Unnamed route is another 75 or so yards on. The base of the route is loose with lots of small rocks. The climbing starts off a ledge right above the trail. Two bolts protect the beginning, although the first one is not very well placed and the second is a very hard clip. A stick clip has been used more than once. After the bolts, people who like protection people will want one more piece in before you reach the splitter.

The splitter starts thin off a ledge (just over an inch). These moves however are not as hard as they look, thanks to flares and footholds. The ensuing climb above, is sustained. The crack is MOSTLY 1.5" to 1.75" with a few flares, pods and more relieving jams to be found. After turning a roof and changing corners a hands free rest can be found before continuing on through more 1.75" sizes and finally an easier finish through thin hands and hand.

A 70m MIGHT get you back to the base. Definitely not a 60 though.


Protection 

Disclaimer: I did not lead this. 2 quickdraws, possibly a stopper or other small cam, probably 1 or 2 one inch pieces, TONS of gear from 1.25" to 2", some red camalots and maybe a couple gold camalots.