The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
When parking just before the cattle guard and approaching up the main trail, this route is visible as a big hands crack in a slot with a triangular roof just before a set of anchors. From the top of the trail navigate a 100 yards or so right (or north) to the base of the route.
The climb is straight forward plugging and chugging until the roof where the size changes to about 4 inches. After turning the roof (crux), the anchors are just above. A second pitch continues on, although I am not sure of the quality (it looks good to me).
Sandbag alert! Sandbag alert! This is rattly fists through the roof... burly as hell unless you have big mits. When I was there several years ago, the plague at the base called it 5.11. I think the Marco I.C. guide has a grade disparity between the topo and description rating.
whatever the grade of this "really" is, if you do this climb it goes from 2" crack, to 3" crack, to 3.5" crack", to 4" crack and then 4" crack out the roof. if 4" cracks are rattly fists for you, 5.10+ might be a sandbag.
By Grant Bryans From: buena vista colorado May 11, 2007
for me it was rattly cups through a roof. fun, yet the 10 (as with most routes at the creek are) is realitive to your hand size, if the jams were more secure for me it would have for sure gone 10.
I'd agree this route is a sandbag at 10+. I have big hands and couldn't get but one fist jam under the roof, and then had to use very marginal forearm jams out the roof as it was just too small to take my fists. Felt desperate. Some lieback with better luck. 3.5 camalots essential for roof.
By Timmamok From: dove creek, co May 8, 2009 rating: 5.10d
This route is 11-
By agarhart From: Grand Junction, CO Oct 20, 2009 rating: 5.11-
No matter the grade this route is awesome. And no matter your hand size there is more than one way to skin this cat.
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