The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
One crack left of Scarface is a shorter tight hands to tight fists crack that begins in a slot. One crack left of this crack is Desert Sunset. Desert Sunset is a left facing corner, with a tight hands crack through a bulge and a splitter on the other wall forming the dihedral. A plaque at the bottom of the route states: Desert Sunset 5.11.
I watched my partner lead the splitter using the pro listed above. Either way, the cracks converge at a good rest in a chimney that pinches down at the top. At the top of the flared slot/chimney, jam and lieback around a constriction to a decent rest. More funky liebacking and jamming leads to a set of anchors on the left side of a wide chimney.
The route is a break from plug-and-chug climbing. We used a 70m rope. Careful with a 60m... it might be close.
Protection
This would be to really sew it up: .75 Camalot, 1 Camalot, 2 Camalot, 3 Friend, 3 Camalot, 3.5 Camalot, 2.5 Friend, Blue TCU, Yellow TCU, Orange TCU, .5 Camalot, 2 Camalot
If folks are calling this climb 5.11, then it might go down in the books as the easiest 11 at the Creek along with Wounded Knee. Stoppers work well on the upper part of this pitch.
Of course grading at Indian Creek can sometimes be very silly. It might be nice if you could submit routes for Indian Creek without a rating. Then there would be no issues of how a climb is graded. It'll be amusing when the new guide book comes out and zillions of people complain that something is graded wrong. Hopefully folks will remember how not all of us have identical bodies.
The route described is an Unnamed 5.10+. The route called Desert Sunset is located further left along the wall, around the corner on the part of the Scarface Wall that faces west. It starts in a blocky and sandy corner and moves up and left into a wandering handcrack of varying size. The anchor is visible high on the face above a zigzag crack. The total length of the pitch is somewhere around 120-130 ft and two ropes are necessary to get off it.
By Alan Searcy From: Pine, Colorado Oct 29, 2004 rating: 5.11a
This is a tremendous line with a little bit of everything. I disagree and feel it's pretty freakin hard. Usually when finishing a pitch and I feel like puking I believe it to be 10d or harder. Maybe it was just the uncooked weenies from City Market? This climb is a must do as is sinestra on meat wall.
As stated in an earlier comment, THIS IS NOT Desert Sunset....in the Bloom book it is an Unnamed 10+. However, it is definitely worth doing! Fantastic hand-jamming and stemming right off the ground and then interesting moves at the top. A great climb to hide from the sun cause it's in the shade all day.
By blakeherrington From: Bellingham, WA Apr 23, 2009 rating: 5.11
Ignore the description.
Desert Sunset starts in a blocky/sandy area the bulge to the right of 'SPAM'. Walk down the hillside a little so you can see the splitter cracks at the top before you start.
Following face climbing and edges, up a finger or hand crack in a flake, on he right. It would be possible to go straight up, but rock quality looked a bit better further left toward the corner. Work up/right to the base of the steep twin cracks, where rock quality and cleanliness improves dramatically. Up the twin cracks, over the bulge, then follow the zig-zagging splitters all the way to the chains. Probably 145 pitch'
Our 70m rope did not come close to reaching the ground. Take two ropes. If leading on a single, bring several runners. Anchor is one bolt and one hex pounded into the crack, with webbing and fixed biners.
Rack 2x Yellow Aliens to #3 camalot, with 5x #2 camalots, 3x#1 and #.75
RSS Feed
Slideshow
