The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>
Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldn’t be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you don’t want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek.
...or Fantastic, as one topo indicates, is a beautiful, difficult splitter - fairly well-chalked when I was on it. There is a plaque at the base. Located well right of where the trail hits the wall. You'll pass Left Crack and Middle Crack (short, straight-in splitters), then you'll get to this longer line. It's pretty obvious - you just have to walk a ways.
Climb an easier-than-it-looks start up softer rock for 25 feet, then begin fingerlocking and stacking your way up to the crux: a long reach to a tips slot followed by another long reach to more thin crack. There is a convenient face hold right at this section which you may or may not find useful. Continue up the slightly offset crack, liebacking or stacking, with occasional locks, to the anchors. Sweet route!
Protection
Many small cams from tiny to finger stacks. Maybe a thin hands piece or two.
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