The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Karsten pulling crux of deseret moon. Lots of sma...
Description
Deseret Moon is a sweet, long splitter hand crack that is guarded by some interesting, difficult climbing off the ground. Approach by heading left along the wall for a good distance (300m?). Just past Tom Cat (a nice hand crack in a varnished corner) is this line.
The direct start is difficult 5.11 stemming up a stem box to a roof of sorts, protected by tiny cams and, formerly, a bolt (now just a hole). The indirect start heads up loose but easy cracks to the left and then traverses over to the ledge just above the direct start. From there you head up a finger crack and flake to a rest before embarking on the gorgeous perfect hands splitter to the anchors.
Two ropes to rap.
Protection
Single set of cams from small to #1 Camalot + several #2 Camalots. Either a #4 Camalot or a bunch of TCU's depending on the start you take.
This is called Desseret Moon. The direct start is 5.11+, nuts useful. The indirect start is not 5.11- R as stated in the guide... more like 5.8 loose.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Feb 27, 2006
I'm not sure if this is where the name comes from, but my kids were playing "Where in the USA is Carmen, San Diego" and there was a question about Deseret and that being the original name proposed for the state of Utah. Is that the source of the name?
The direct start is hard and solid at the 5.11+ grade. Take many small aliens if leading the direct start. The indirect start is easy and loose, and detracts from the quality rating.
well the entire route is 5.11- from the other start, and the start is r rated. so as far as 5.11-r, that would be correct. the whole route is sure as hell not 5.8, so its not 5.8r. the more proper way of describing it, i suppose, would be to say that it is 5.11- with a 5.8r start. there ya go a.c.
The start felt .11b/c like to me but that was probably because I put in a ton of gear. I would have to agree with an .11- grade. The fun part comes up higher with the spectacular handcrack that goes on forever.
I had a friend take a 30' ground fall on to his back from the 11+ start when three cams ripped. They were most likey placed poorly, but be warned, a big fall onto small gear is a bad idea.
Was your friend ok? You can see the amount of falls taken and gear rippage from the chips in the wingate. The key here is backing up your small pieces and stringing runner(s) appropriately.
Uhmm... Guess that's why there use to be a bolt there. Folks, I know many do it, but I would recommend not trusting tiny cams in this rock for much. I can tell you, multiple true stories about small cams & even sometimes even large cams pulling in this rock with sometimes very bad consequences. Be careful and remember, it's a very long way to the Emergency Room from Indian Creek.
By JoergB From: Germany Oct 14, 2009 rating: 5.11a R
On TR I considered the direct start not really difficult, but on lead the thin pro might be rather awful.
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