The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>
Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldn’t be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you don’t want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek.
Tony Bubb follows 'Slot Machine (12-)' at Resevoir...
Description
Just right of the giant slumped block by Pente, about 25 feet of facey climbing protected by a bolt accesses a long acute dihedral with a tight-hands crack in the back-- the Slot Machine. Exiting the crack at the top is probably the crux, as one is forces to battle rope drag and sandy feet while underclinging around the roof closing off the top of the dihedral. We found the Slot Machine to be sustained and strenuous, but hardly 5.12 as described in the Knapp guide. Placque at base. Good anchors.
Protection
Many green juniors or 2" Friends, numerous red camalots, light assorted stuff for the bottom.
(At considerable risk of diving into pointless internet grade-debate wankery...)
I returned to this route last week with the above comments in mind and led it. Since I am the .12a canary-in-the-coal-mine, having never succeeded on this grade without hanging, I feel I'm a good judge. It's just not that hard. Practically every move in the slot is a rest, if you know how to chimney, and none of them are harder than 5.11 by any stretch. I was able to slog my way up the thing, while bumping gear and dealing with the typical tiresome rack issues one sometimes encounters, for the entire last 40 feet of the route, without hanging. This would never be possible for me on real 5.12, where I can barely eke out the moves on toprope. So I stand by the earlier assessment: it's solid 5.11, no more. For me. With my hands (thin-average). On that day. Et cetera.
The protection requirements have changed since part of the leaning pillar broke off. Instead of a ton of #1 Camalots, you need maybe 5 #1s and 6 #2s. Also, take a two foot trad draw for the first bolt, then you can protect the first part of the open book with a black Alien, then a 0.3 Camalot, a couple yellow Aliens, a couple red Aliens, maybe 3 0.75 Camalots.
My buddy let me borrow a knee pad for my left knee. Use that and a left knee bar behind your right foot for probably half of the route. Doing that led to a concensus in our group that the route was maybe solid 11 (11c) or so.
If you look at the required gear listed in the old guide book it documents that the crack was smaller. Now to easy. Terrible route. I will never do it again. I am going to be presumptious and speak for everyone else and say they should not do it eithier.
I'll agree with anyone who says 11+ or 12-... with 12- being the high range of what I have ever been comfortable leading at the creek, and I thought this was tough in 2004. If it has broken, such is the way of sandstone, I hope people play lightly in the desert, even the stones are fragile.
We arrived at the res wall one day to hear the sound of sand flowing down the back of this route... and then we didn't climb it... I wouldn't recommend fissure grippin' this piece of mountain, but despite my better judgment I'll probably do it again. I mean some very unlucky person *might die on this if it fell, but what are the odds it's going to be you?!
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