This is the wide short crack when you get to the base of the cliff. I've never done it, but everyone I know who has, told me it's harder then it looks.Looks like you can get your knees in the crack, but apparently they just don't quite fit. Name? Probably 5.10+
If this is the route on the detached block to the left of polygrip, rock lobster etc then I would have to strongly disagree with the bomb rating. Having done it, I thought the offwidth moves over the roof interesting, hard and very fun. 2 stars at least.
This climb is a blast!! Initially very easy it goes through a very strenuous offwidth bulge in a wide #4 Camalot size. The last bit is best protected by two #4.5 Camalots (or walking just one #4.5 for a while). I would lean towards the 5.11- rating for this one. By consensus with friends, the hardest moves at the bulge are definitely in the 5.11 range.
The route is called "Pussy Wuss Crack" The guide has it at 10+. It's pretty casual to the bulge but, pulling that roof is tough!! Two of my friends onsighted it I just rode the TR.
Broken Tooth
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