This route is a few hundred feet to the left of where the trail meets the rock. It is a long right facing corner that passes through a few roofs. It starts out with some laybacking that quickly turns to perfect hands. Its long, pumpy and awesome. It gets a five star, 5.11 grade in the guide but many will say a #2 Camalot-sized crack can't be harder than 5.10+. Go figure.
Protection
Mostly #2 Camalots with a few #1 and some smaller stuff for the lieback start
I agree with the 5.11a rating, even though it is hand size most of the way. I used mostly #2.5 and #3 friends (11 total).
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Mar 19, 2007 rating: 5.11-
Awesome climb to photograph from 50 meters to the right, at the base of the short 11- and 10+. YOu catch the climber at the crux looking like he's on an arete. Great route, crux up top is 11- and you are pumped.
Yeah, the hardest parts are the start and the end of this fantastic crack, obviously. Not the perfect hand 5.10 that make up most of this route. 5.11- is fair isn't it?
RSS Feed
