Slightly hard than Rock Lobster, but way better. The Ruckman's guidebook says something about taping the right side of your harness for the finger layback section, but that's an exaggeration. The pitch begins with some tight hands and good feet that goes to a big ledge at the beginning of the killer finger layback section. Layback about forty feet of perfect fingers (yellow aliens), pull a thin hands bulge (crux), and finish with some thin hands.
Protection
Bomber fingers, like yellow aliens, and some thin hands, like green and red camalots.
Good route description Max, but where is the climb in reference to the trail. We wouldn't want someone jumping on a 5.12+ because they thought it was Polygrip...
Can miss it. There are three splitter crack climbs right next to each other when you get to the base of the wall. From left to right it goes: Rock Lobster, Inflictor, Polygrip.
Getting over the roof is on #1.5 friends, so its more of ringlocks than thin hands. If you can't get thin hands at the roof, the 11+ rating in the Marco guide is more accurate. Considerably harder than Rock Lobster.
By d-know From: electric lady land Jan 26, 2006 rating: 5.11+
cool route. mellow start. pumpy mid section, and almost desperate finish.
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