Damn this route is cool. Pitch 1: some fingers and stemming. 5.10+. There is not a fixed nut here, as described in Stewart-Green's guide. Pitch 2: a burly 5.11 offwidth move leads to killer thin hands that pull over a bulge onto the exposed face. A hanging belay awaits. Pitch 3: Time to get serious. Lots of #2 friends and purple camalots protect this pitch. The curving offset splitter is unrelenting. Either send this pitch, or get Pistol Whipped!
Rap: A double rope rap from the top to a roomy ledge. Another double rope rap (maybe single, but you already got the ropes tied together) to the ground.
Protection
Lots of thin hands and rattly fingers. A #4 Camalot will help on the second pitch.
12a for an onsight. Retrospectively I think this is one of those routes that would feel way easier with beta.
For the rappel......
There is a good anchor on the very top. It has webbing tied, one piece per bolt. This way the rings are over the lip and the rope pulls easier. The previous rapper had equalized each sling to both bolts, thus taking the length down to half and causing the rope to be pushed, cammed, and jammed into rope grooves on the edge. We didn't think it'd make us unable to pull the rope but it did. So lots of joyous prussicking ensued. Anyway, long story short, don't rap off that anchor if the rings aren't all the way over the edge.
Pistol Whipped
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