The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Damn this route is cool. Pitch 1: some fingers and stemming. 5.10+. There is not a fixed nut here, as described in Stewart-Green's guide. Pitch 2: a burly 5.11 offwidth move leads to killer thin hands that pull over a bulge onto the exposed face. A hanging belay awaits. Pitch 3: Time to get serious. Lots of #2 friends and purple camalots protect this pitch. The curving offset splitter is unrelenting. Either send this pitch, or get Pistol Whipped!
Rap: A double rope rap from the top to a roomy ledge. Another double rope rap (maybe single, but you already got the ropes tied together) to the ground.
Protection
Lots of thin hands and rattly fingers. A #4 Camalot will help on the second pitch.
By Beached Nuts From: Bermuda bitches Nov 19, 2007 rating: 5.12-
12a for an onsight. Retrospectively I think this is one of those routes that would feel way easier with beta.
For the rappel......
There is a good anchor on the very top. It has webbing tied, one piece per bolt. This way the rings are over the lip and the rope pulls easier. The previous rapper had equalized each sling to both bolts, thus taking the length down to half and causing the rope to be pushed, cammed, and jammed into rope grooves on the edge. We didn't think it'd make us unable to pull the rope but it did. So lots of joyous prussicking ensued. Anyway, long story short, don't rap off that anchor if the rings aren't all the way over the edge.
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