The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>
Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldn’t be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you don’t want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek.
This is a hard short climb just to the left of Raja. The grade isn't on the plague, so 12a is what I'd rate it. It has two very hard cruxes getting over the roofs with pumpy climbing in-between. The first roof felt the hardest to me, though it is more straight forward climbing. If you can do pull-ups on rattly fingers, then you're in business. The second roof takes some figuring out... there are some face holds and stems which make this doable. Pumpy ring locks lead to the anchors.
Protection
1 Green alien, 1 yellow alien, 5 #1 friends, 2-3 #1.5 friends, 1 red camalot
Since it is in a corner, and has some face holds around the second roof, this is one of the better climbs to really work on the difficult "baggy fingers" size; .5 camalots for normal fingered males.
RSS Feed
