The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>
Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldn’t be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you don’t want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek.
Overlook begins to the right of "wiggling worm" & "three fools" in a less than vertical splitter that turns into a right facing dihedral. The first pitch anchors are not visible on a ledge halfway up the climb. The start jutts out on a pronounced pedestal defined by the late afternoon sun line. 1st pitch: Start with hands in a crack that quickly leans left and widens to 4-5"; good face features abound as the crack turns into a right facing dihedral. After a short vertical offwidth section (tee-hee-hee) the crack narrows down to fists then hands and dumps you onto a ledge. 2nd pitch: This right facing dihedral offers excellent hand and fist jams interrupted by some minor over hanging flaring offwidth pods; however, it's really hard to fall out when you can fit your whole leg in. Overall this is a great two pitch climb that gives the full flavor of desert climbing.
Protection
Standard desert rack- at least a few big ass cams(2-3BD #2's, 2-3BD #3's, 2-3BD #3.5's, 2-3bd #4's, 2BD #4.5's, and maybe 1-2BD #5's) Poor anchor at first pitch1 drilled angle and a fixed small nut (sweet)
This is not the route Overlook that you describe. Overlook is 2-pitches. The 2nd pitch is one of the Creek's finest overhanging splitters which is quite obvious when coming up the approach trail as a perfect splitter cleaving a headwall about 150 feet up. There is a plaque at the base of the first pitch which climbs discontinuous wide cracks to a ledge at the base of the awesome 2nd pitch splitter. A couple #4 Camalots were sufficient for the 1st pitch. I was able to climb the 1st pitch without tons of groveling. Either way, the 2nd pitch is worth the effort to get to it. Perfect rock, overhanging hands to thinhands with endurance as the crux.
According to the new guide I had it wrong; this route description is for the route to the left of three fools in the new guide. It is two pitches and sweet...
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