The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
The plaque at the base identifies this route, it is in the area of Tom Cat. A loose (welcome to the desert) bouldery start gets your attention before standing on a ledge that will put you into a nice thin hands crack. The crack slowly opens up to hands, and toward the top where it gets to that bigger than hands, smaller than fists size, some face holds appear to save the day. This was a fun route, though I think the bouldery start scare people. A puppy crawl in from the side can side step the looseness. Again, it's great route.
Protection
A wide array of protection ranging from #1 to #3.5 Camalot exist. It seems about 5 of the #1s is the max you will need of any given piece, with only 2 of the #3.5. A small TCU can protect the boulder problem start, but it would likely blow out if anyone bigger than Tom Thumb whipped on it.
For folks with big hands, the short stretch of crack that leans left about half way up the route will be the crux. The crack necks back down to a #2 Friend after being Red Camalots for a while. If #3 Friends are good hands for you, this route will feel harder than 5.10.
The crux is short though, with a decent rest after it.
By Jeff G. From: Fort Collins Nov 13, 2006 rating: 5.10d
This is a very good pitch with nice variation from thin hands to big hands,a great warm-up.
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