Just right of 3AM Crack is splitter handcrack with a thin start and a couple of wider pods. The first move is bouldery, but once you're on the pedestal, the fun begins. Perfect jams lead up to some akwardness, then more fun jamming to the anchor. 1 rope will get you up and down.
I thought this climb was as good as any other line we climbed at the creek. It felt more like 5.10 than 5.11. Don't miss the rest.
Protection
Rap off the 3AM anchors and swing right to a 2-bolt bolt station 80' off the ground, and set up your TR. The guidebooks give this climb an R. It seems like the first 10 feet wouldn't be worth protecting as the rock is suspect. After that, the pro should be bomber to the anchors.
I led this climb last fall and agree with the 10 rating. Just off the ground, you can reach high (for me) and place a pretty good TCU (I believe it was a 3). The rock above this is a little suspect for a short bit as the route poster mentioned. I would give it more of an "S-".
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Mar 30, 2003
I believe the "R" rating in the '99 guidebook refers to the section at the top that one used to have to traverse to the 3AM anchor. There is now an anchor atop Wild Works, eliminating this traverse. The route protects just fine.
this route was well protected even through the soft area near the beginning. nice hands to a pod where one needs to delve deep to jam and place. P1 ends on fingers to a set of anchors 80 feet up. P2 is the crux 11 pitch.
It is probably best not to follow the guidebook's gear recommendation. You will probably want more than 2 sets of cams. One set of cams to a #3 Camalot, with 3 #1s and 5 #2s will probably make you more comfortable to the first set of anchors.
Supercrack Buttress
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