The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
This fun climb is located immediately to the left of Fat Cat and tackles a mostly thin hands to hand crack through some difficult pods. An intimidating, dirty roof guards the start. I give this route an "S" due to the roof moves which are protected by a small cam (blue alien) in suspect rock. The moves are no harder than 5.8/5.9 but a fall is not recommended.
After pulling the roof continue through the first pod (burly!) to a very thin hand crack with decent feet out left. A good rest comes before the next pod where, thankfully, the crack widens to perfect hands. The pod is burly but perseverence and determination will see you through.
Opinions will differ as to which pod is harder. I found the second pod to be harder as it is very difficult to place gear in the back.
Protection
A mix of cams from #0.5-#2 camalot. A #4 camalot works well in the low pod. A blue alien or purple TCU is key for protecting the dirty roof at the start
I also should add that a 60m rope will get you off the route fine. However, the anchor is a bit sketchy, so add some back-up gear (hand-size) if you TR.
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