The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
This unusual Indian Creek finger crack actually has a crux that is more akin to face climbing. Be ready to pull it while protected by your smallest cams though. The route is way left of the Johnny Cat alcove, though not as far over as 9 Lives. There is a plaque at the base.
Climb the excellent finger crack at a sustained low-mid 5.11 level. A decent rest stance can be found just below the crux where the crack pinches to nothing. Fire in all the purple TCUs you brought and go for the crux. I have personally taken the short fall from the crux onto a purple TCU and it held. Even so, this is Wingate sandstone, not granite, so arrange your pro intelligently at the crux.
Protection
Lots of finger sized pieces... nothing bigger than a #.75 camalot. 2 or 3 Purple TCUs, or equivalent sized pieces, for the crux at the top are key.
This is an excellent climb. The first section is really enjoyable and the crux is hard but fun. In regards to the rack, I used 2 #1 cams and 2 #2 cams. There are a few good pods and the opening roof that allow the use of these larger cams so you can save the small stuff.
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