The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
After a sustained lead a top rope is born on a bea...
Description
This climb is left of Incredible Hand Crack. Look for the first climb that has a small pillar at its base. Above the pillar, the climb continues as a right-facing dihedral. Not too far above the pillar is a small roof. You'll see the rest.
Make sure you milk the rest a little more than half way up. This climb is sustained.
Protection
My favorite climb on the Supercrack Buttress. The start is thin for me, but 4 #1 Camalots will be more than enough. The rest of the way I placed #2 and #3 Camalots. I took 6 #2s and 6 #3s. It can be done with one rope. With rope stretch you will just reach the ground, or miss by 3 feet.
yeah, it is a a thin start. Just punch through it quickly to get to a good handjam rest right below the little lip.I think that it is definitely adviseable just to lower down to the top of the boulder and downclimb the last fifteen feet if you don't have a 70m rope.
This route is awesome. I compare it supercrack quality for it had diverse moves(slab, fist, hand, finger, flakes, liebacks). This climb demands a number of different skills as well as some endurance(not too many rest stances). One of the best routes I have climbed.
The flake pulling past the thin crack was some of the coolest climbing I have ever done. I really enjoyed the fist/wide hand crack as well.
This climb is really sustained and I had just never had such a hard time on a 5.10 flat.
My partner and I lead this at the end of a long day. When I finished this route it was absolutely beer:30. This is a great route, emphasis on great. We descended with two ropes, if you have'em, use'em. We found this thing to be pretty damn tiring, bust through the thin hands and hands because the hardest section, at least for me, was the last 30 or 40 feet of #3s. Did I mention that this was a great route!
We climbed this route in Late May and there must be something sharp on the anchor. We looked at my rope after it was pulled and there was considerable sheath damage. Check them out before you get lowered.
Check your rope length (as always). Someone got dropped on Sunday while being lowered cause the rope shot through the belayers hand before the climber reached the ground. He fell 15 or 20 feet. I hope he is recovering ok. Does anyone know his status?
Kevin, the guy who got dropped by me (also Kevin) is doing okay. He broke his sacrum and is expected to make a full recovery in 6 weeks.
We thank all of the people at the craig on Sunday who helped us out with first aid, you were all great.
I made a very bone-head mistake in assuming the route was suitable for a 60m rope and was not paying attention when Kevin got dropped. I'll never make the mistake again as this has been a life changing experience.
I agree w/ those who think that this is a better route than IHC. Not to put any route down in the Creek. I thought is was just superb. Superb!! Big big hands at the top. Bring some #3's or equivalent.
70 meter rope works fine. Just make sure you're using your 70. :)
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