After a sustained lead a top rope is born on a bea...
Description
This climb is left of Incredible Hand Crack. Look for the first climb that has a small pillar at its base. Above the pillar, the climb continues as a right-facing dihedral. Not too far above the pillar is a small roof. You'll see the rest.
Make sure you milk the rest a little more than half way up. This climb is sustained.
Protection
My favorite climb on the Supercrack Buttress. The start is thin for me, but 4 #1 Camalots will be more than enough. The rest of the way I placed #2 and #3 Camalots. I took 6 #2s and 6 #3s. It can be done with one rope. With rope stretch you will just reach the ground, or miss by 3 feet.
yeah, it is a a thin start. Just punch through it quickly to get to a good handjam rest right below the little lip.I think that it is definitely adviseable just to lower down to the top of the boulder and downclimb the last fifteen feet if you don't have a 70m rope.
This route is awesome. I compare it supercrack quality for it had diverse moves(slab, fist, hand, finger, flakes, liebacks). This climb demands a number of different skills as well as some endurance(not too many rest stances). One of the best routes I have climbed.
The flake pulling past the thin crack was some of the coolest climbing I have ever done. I really enjoyed the fist/wide hand crack as well.
This climb is really sustained and I had just never had such a hard time on a 5.10 flat.
My partner and I lead this at the end of a long day. When I finished this route it was absolutely beer:30. This is a great route, emphasis on great. We descended with two ropes, if you have'em, use'em. We found this thing to be pretty damn tiring, bust through the thin hands and hands because the hardest section, at least for me, was the last 30 or 40 feet of #3s. Did I mention that this was a great route!
We climbed this route in Late May and there must be something sharp on the anchor. We looked at my rope after it was pulled and there was considerable sheath damage. Check them out before you get lowered.
Supercrack Buttress
RSS Feed
