The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Find this route toward the right-hand side of the developed area of Blue Gramma Cliff, just to the left of some large petroglyphs, in a sandy, light-colored section of rock. Just to the right of said petroglyphs is the route Moon Goddess Revenge, a more alluring flip-flop dihedral.
Petrelli Motors, a relatively short climb (60'), starts in a sandy tips-to-first-knuckle crack. Place a few TCUs in the start and move up through the crux to where the the rock becomes slabby, but more solid. A few move moves take you to the second section on some soft footholds (trust them?) where you can stick in a few more cams and go for the anchors.
The route is worth doing if you are there and are ready to pack it up, but is certainly no destination-maker.
Protection
Small cams and TCUs , mostly 0.4 - 0.75" with a few pieces up to good hand size.
This was my favorite climb at IC. So much fun and great bouldery moves. I made it super exciting by not bringing enough small cams.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Nov 14, 2006
The Bloom guidebook is off on the sizes for this route. I think he recommends .5"-2.0", but there's nothing larger than a 0.75 (green) camalot, and that's in the first 15' of the route. All small stuff after that.
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