The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Casually onsighting Elephant man. Finding the ri...
Description
This route is just right of Chocolate Corner. Go up a widening and sometimes awkward crack to ledge with anchors, about 70 feet. Save a few small cams for the end. I think there are upper pitches too, but I didn't do them.
Protection
Doubles of cams from green alien to #2 camalot, with maybe triples of #1 and #2 camalots
Please don't be a lazy bumbly and set this climb as a top rope. You will only add to the gouges over the shoulder of the ledge. Belay your second from the anchors, where you will be standing on a ledge.
This climb is not sustained like other 5.10- climbs in this area. This route, plus Keyhole Flake, were the only 5.10's I was able to lead on a past trip to Indian Creek. I found this climb easier than Generic Crack, even. Good climb, though!
i found the first pitch of this route a bit awkward and a grainier sandstone then its neighbors. this could be because of the amount of traffic it sees. still a nice pitch with some variety.
I also found this climb to be one of the easiest on this side of the canyon, or maybe both sides.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Nov 14, 2006
Definitely worth doing, with good jams all the way. The rock quality (lighter-color sandstone) isn't as good as neighboring routes (as evidenced by the grooves below the anchor).
I believe the photo posted by shawn for the Unknown 5.9 climb (on the same crag) is actually of Elephant Man. I don’t want to pick on anyone, but if you enlarge the photo, you can see the grooves worn directly into the rock by toproping. It underscores a problem we saw repeatedly at the Creek: careless toproping. It takes very little to saw through Windgate sandstone, especially when the dark red and black veneer has worn off. There were many other climbs bearing the same scars. We brought along a 30' piece of webbing that we used to extend anchors where necessary, which seemed to help quite a bit. The only other option that I can think of would be for the leader to belay from the top of the pitch, in which case all climbers would rap down. Even with this, the leader would want to belay just over the ledge to avoid the same problem. The great thing about Indian Creek is that it is, to a large extent, self-regulated by climbers. It would be great if this spirit of responsibility could extend to taking better care of the climbs. Please treat this area with great care. It’s a sacred place (like all climbing destinations).
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