The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>
Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldn’t be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you don’t want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek.
Me at the base of the route ready for some perfect...
Description
This route is an obvious, left-facing dihedral. This route lies just left of where the main trail up to the crag meets the rock, and about 20 yards to the right of Wigglin' Worm.
Tape up your paws and climb the wide-hands crack (with a fist here or there for small handed people) to the top of this 70' crack and lower off of the fixed anchor.
This route is great if you have small hands and want to work on fists or if you have big hands and want to work on off-hands. My hands are medium-sized for a girl and I get bomber fists almost the whole way - albiet the jams hurt pretty bad. And suck it up on this one and go tapeless - teaches you better technique!!
NOTE: I'm not sure the route description above fits Three Fools, especially the picture. Three Fools is the splitter but short fist crack that splits the wall at the top of the approach trail.
The pro list above is wrong. If you bring a #2 BD it is going to stay on your harness. The smallest piece you want is a #3 BD or 3.5 WC And you are going to need a few of them. I did place a #4 WC and and old 3.5 BD on this to. You are going to get afternoon sun on this route as well.
That's really odd. I placed some. So perhaps I have the wrong route here? Can anyone re-suggest what route this was so that I can "rename this" and so that the "3 fools" space acan be vacated for a different description?
Note: this was put online prior to the new guide- maybe there is a discrepancy in the bloom book Vs the old paperback folded IC guide?
The photo by Monty is what I thought was three fools; the photo of dave is what the new guide calls three fools. Damn!
By Steven Lucarelli From: Glenwood Springs, CO Sep 29, 2008 rating: 5.10+
Tony,
The route your describing here is actually an unnamed 5.10 #12 in the new Bloom guide. Three Fools is farther right and climbs a slightly overhanging big hand and fist crack (#3-#3.5 Camalots, maybe the new #4's might fit at the widest spot?)
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