Portions of Reservior Wall are on private land and should not be climbed MORE INFO >>>
Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldn’t be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you don’t want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek.
Mack truckin Dr. Carl
Description
Find the route Wigglin' Worm and look just about 40 feet to the left. You will see a set of chalked up thin cracks, near the ground. These twin cracks are thin and delicate at the base. Protect with a .5" or smaller cam behind a thin flake for pro on the left, and climb up a bit higher to good gear.
Stem, layback, and jam up between the opposing flakes and cracks for about 70', until the right-hand side slopes over to a ledge with an anchor.
The moves are reasonably easy, but require a little bit of power here and there. One could argue that this route is 5.9.
Protection
This route is pretty secure and offers reasonable good gear in a variety of sizes, I double set of cams .5 to 3" should suffice to protect the route if you do not have an "Indian Creek rack."
From the ground, the route appears to require all small gear, but the 'invisible' crack on the left will take gear from 2-3" for the top half of the route.
I'd have to vote for two stars on this one. It's not the best route at the crag, but the moves are a lot of fun. It makes a great warm-up for the other classics nearby.
Nice climb overall. However, when I climbed this last week (nov 23 2005) the large flake towards the top 1/4 of the route flexed enough to make me not want to yard on it, even though there was a ton of chalk on it, at the least I would advise not placing gear behind this.
The large flake towards the top not only flexes but moves when you pull on it. The moves are reasonable without pulling on the flake but be careful up there.
Reservoir Wall
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