The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Meow Mix is just about the farthest route to the right when facing Cat Wall on the approach. Reach the wall, turn right, and just keep going. Eventually, the trail leads to some very easy down-scrambling, and then continues curving back left into an alcove. Meow Mix is the first good-looking line after this. A large right facing corner that flares to wide in places. First pitch is easy .10 or .9 or something for 60ft or so to a ledge with a bolt anchor with slings on it. Route continues up the corner via thin hands/laybacking for another 100 ft or so. Quality climbing. We ended up on it when we kept walking until we came upon a route that no one was on that was within our ability to lead. Unfortunately, I wasn't feeling up to Catastrophe that day.
Protection
Just bring lots of everything. Mostly hand and thin hand size. 165 ft pitch can be done in two.
That 2-bolt anchor wasn't there; the climb was more like 180 feet, and I put in a lot of bigger stuff. Lots of work towards the top, what with the huge rack and 2 ropes.
There's no 2 bolt anchor on the slopy ledge after 60ft. There wasn't even old bolt holes so I'm not sure where your information is coming from? Make sure you bring some wide pieces, couple #4 camalots and 3-4 #3.5 camalots. Also, it doesn't get thin until the last 40ft, but even that widens up near the anchors. The anchors at the very top are chain anchors.
I think 10+ is fair for a grade. I didn't see the anchors at 60' either. Consider bringing an old #5 camalot for the middle offwidth pod. The anchors at 180' are chain anchors and visible from the ground. A good mix of climbing dominated by hands. enjoy
RSS Feed
