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Wild Cat 

Meow Mix 

5.10+

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10+ [details]
Views: 592 page views

Submitted By: Chris Dawson on Oct 14, 2001


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Brian Story leading Meow Mix


Description 

Meow Mix is just about the farthest route to the right when facing Cat Wall on the approach. Reach the wall, turn right, and just keep going. Eventually, the trail leads to some very easy down-scrambling, and then continues curving back left into an alcove. Meow Mix is the first good-looking line after this. A large right facing corner that flares to wide in places. First pitch is easy .10 or .9 or something for 60ft or so to a ledge with a bolt anchor with slings on it. Route continues up the corner via thin hands/laybacking for another 100 ft or so. Quality climbing. We ended up on it when we kept walking until we came upon a route that no one was on that was within our ability to lead. Unfortunately, I wasn't feeling up to Catastrophe that day.


Protection 

Just bring lots of everything. Mostly hand and thin hand size. 165 ft pitch can be done in two.



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By Ben Faber
From: Benfield, Kolorado
Oct 7, 2002

Doing this in one long push is a worthy endeavor. Make sure to use lots of runners if you do.

I'd like to give it 3 stars just because its so long, almost all the rock is high quality, and the climbing is interesting and varied.

This climb seemed more like a 10 than a 10+. The other 10+s at the Cat Wall seem to be this way too.

Someone may want to bring some new webbing up to the anchor. Cut whatever piece looks the worst and replace it. None of it looked brand new.

By Rob Dillon
From: Leadville, CO
Mar 12, 2003

That 2-bolt anchor wasn't there; the climb was more like 180 feet, and I put in a lot of bigger stuff. Lots of work towards the top, what with the huge rack and 2 ropes.

By Jason Haas
From: Westminster, CO
Apr 23, 2006

There's no 2 bolt anchor on the slopy ledge after 60ft. There wasn't even old bolt holes so I'm not sure where your information is coming from? Make sure you bring some wide pieces, couple #4 camalots and 3-4 #3.5 camalots. Also, it doesn't get thin until the last 40ft, but even that widens up near the anchors. The anchors at the very top are chain anchors.

By Brian Story
Mar 25, 2008

I think 10+ is fair for a grade. I didn't see the anchors at 60' either. Consider bringing an old #5 camalot for the middle offwidth pod. The anchors at 180' are chain anchors and visible from the ground. A good mix of climbing dominated by hands. enjoy