The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Ryan Jaret on-sighting one of the sweetest hand cr...
Description
A few hundred yards to the left of Sinestra in a large left facing corner with thin seams on the left wall. Beautiful handjamming in a varnished corner. Enjoy the many face holds for your feet on the left wall, or just ignore them and motor up the crack. One 60m rope was just barely too short for the rappel. A 70m rope would be perfect. This route really deserves a name!
I think you can TR this route with a 60 m if you belay on top of the big boulder at the start. A little bit of a pain to downclimb from there but not hard.
Maybe 100 yards left of Sinestra, tops. If you hit a plaqued flare called 'Mad Cow Disease' then you just walked past it.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Mar 30, 2007 rating: 5.10
AWESOME route. Soft for the grade for IC. Begin with a short section of thin hands (#0.75-#1 camelot) to a nice rest. A pod is easily passed with face features. Then enjoy 80+ feet of cruising on perfect hands with a nice stem rest every 5-10 feet. The crack gradually goes from tight #2 camelots to tight #3 camelots the whole way. Enjoy the plentiful rests. A #4 camelot might be useful in the first pod, but the climbing is easy.
By Jason Hundhausen From: Los Alamos, NM Jul 17, 2007 rating: 5.10c
An excellent crack! Climb to the top of the boulder for a comfortable belay and also so you can use a single 60 meter rope. The majority of the route was great hands and the cracks to the left provided plenty of rests along the way.
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