Good view of just about the whole route (it's a lo...
Description
Yet another sexy crack at the Creek. To find this beauty, head WAY right when you reach the wall. Just before a drop-off is this spitter appears. It is long... It also has a few pods in it and meanders a little. When I climbed the route, there was a plaque at its base (just in case you can't recognize this good crack). This climb has been given an R rating by some because of a blocky section. Most of this short section is solid and will protect. Also, a second bolt is at the anchor now to supplement the FA's creative metal work.
Jolly Rancher begins as tight hands (2 Friend/1Camalot) and slowly widens. The majority of this pitch was cupped hands (wide 3 Friend/tight 3 Camalot). Worry not - cupped hands make for good feet. Towards the top, the size narrows to fingers at the somewhat blocky section and foot holds appear on the last bit.
Protection
Gear required for this pitch ranges from 3/4 to 4 inches. Bring 3 or 4 pieces in the 2 to 2.5" range, at least 6 3" pieces, at least 3 3.5" pieces and save a second 1" piece to back-up the belay. This route is about 140' and requires 2 ropes for the rap.
I do not think this route is "R" rated. The blocky section up top is about 10ft. long and can safely be protected both before and after it. Be sure to bring double ropes for this route. a 70meter rope will leave you about 15ft. off the deck even with stretch.
By Danny Inman From: Westminster Dec 6, 2006 rating: 5.10
Very nice route, if #3 BDs are your size, get on this thing. As for the "R", no way this is an R. As Jason Haas said, bomber gear below and immediately after the blocky section.
Pistol Whipped
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