South Face 

Fun route! An excellent first tower with superb rock, good exposure, spectacular views, and low commitment. The actual technical climbing only constitutes about 20 minutes; however, the drive and approach make it a fun half-day outing. This route is popular, so be prepared for crowds. Helmet recommended.

Did this climb last month and it was a lot of fun. We took two ropes but found that one 60 Meter Rope will get you to the base of the climb from the 2nd Rappel. Just take one rope!

Attempted to find this route last week. I think we ended up doing some kind of varation. Started maybe a bit right of the broken rock, couple easy ledge moves to a hard move past a huge death flake with bad pro, and then a more or less direct line to the top, passing the rap staion. A fun route. The trail starts on the ridge line. It is kinda tricky to find the first marker, but worth it for sure. -Wes

The mantle on the last part of the climb is not only hard for 5.6 (call me crazy, but it felt more like 5.9!--there's no holds to reach up to at all, it's a pure mantle), but also very poorly protected--you will be injured if you fall (this is before you can clip the bolt). For comparison, I led nearly all of the Lightning Bolt Cracks on North Sixshooter, but I was actually more scared leading this "5.6" mantle than anywhere on that route! Maybe it feels so hard because the rest of the route leading up to it is so easy; however, I would not say that this is the easiest route in Indian Creek. It also looks as though you can climb to the right-hand summit with much better protection (there is a continuous crack), but I don't know how hard it is. Does anyone know which of these summits is higher?

One 200 foot rope works perfectly for the rappels--don't drag two ropes up here.

The other summit (the east one) is pretty cool. The climbing up the obvious south-face flake/rib felt about 5.8. High quality face moves, but with no gear until you reach the horizontal break near the top (by which time it's easy). Might as well do both at the same time. To be honest the "5.6" mantel on the other summit felt more like 5.8 too. Maybe I should have made better use of my knees.Not sure which summit is higher.

We climbed the "other" summit (the one without the bolt). It protected well. From our vantage point, it looked a few feet higher than the other summit. If you have hiked that far, just do both. This was a great summit with incredible views!

If you have extra time after descending the attractive looking left-angling crack right of the standard start is quite good. It brings you to an anchor that puts you back on the ground with a single 60m. I felt it was in the 10a/b range.

Absolutely a three star route, everthing about it is good.

Definitely not a 3 star route, everything about it is good??? I think you were just psyched to get to the top of a tower, and for that I give it two stars... but in terms of quality climbing and moves? Give me a break. It is awesome for its location, beauty, and ease. Not a 3 star route. (For those who care.) Side note- Be sure to find the petroglyph...

What a beautiful "little" climb. My friend and I did this route last week, right before the rain came to the Creek. Varied climbing (chimey/crack/face) and almost patagonian-like winds (my parter should know since he's a seasoned patagonian climber!) made this a great adventure. Very recommended!!

Do the variation second pitch (5.7), you only wish that crack was a little (or a lot!) longer!!

Just one comment on the descent. From the top of pitch 2, one single 60 meter rope will make it to the ground (it's probably around 95 feet to the ground). -Cheers!

A fun outing. More Pictures and a TR at
http://www.piquaclimber.com/past/southsixshooter/southsixsho>>>>>

One-star climbing to a Four-star summit. Anybody else ever notice that Stewart Green's Climbing Utah topo shows an arrow urging you to traverse left around the north side of the summit block for the final pitch? Take a look. The first time I climbed this route I unfortunately over-adhered to this mistaken piece of graphical advice. Yeegads! It is a highly(and I mean highly) exposed, unprotectable dead-end that is full of shifting sand and cantilevered blocks. Rather less than "Fun" trying to "down" climb this section to get back on track to the real route. Caveat Emptor, indeed.

The grade I gave is for one of the cracks to the right of the standard south face route. It is the striking left arching hand crack. It finishes at the top of pitch 2 on the standard route.
My partner, Turtle also lead a crack system to the right of this which went up at around 5.9 to the bottom of the second summit. Both routes better than standard route.

The crack system to the right as described by Chris Perkins is about 100 feet right of the South Face route. I'd call it 5.7/8 with consistent, fun moves on the first pitch to a bolted belay/rap station. The second pitch ascends the south tower (which is the higher of the two summits!) via a chimney then face moves to the top. Great route!

The 5.7 lieback crack is alot of fun and shouldn't be missed. After doing the the standard route my partner led the left arching crack and it is a spectactular line. We both thought it felt hard for 5.10, but we're not very experienced crack climbers.

Posted a photo showing some of these variations to the standard South Face route. I climbed the striking left-arching crack and agree with the easy- to mid-5.10 rating. I'd go with 5.10b if I had to choose - and a really fun one at that. There are also a few variations to the right of this crack that apparently come in around 5.9. Lots of entertaining options for climbing in a spectacular setting!

A great route for relatively new trad leaders or for bringing friends who are new to climbing. It consists of fairly easy climbing, but offers big payoff in terms of view and overall experience. If you're with new climbers or groups of 3 or more, you could break pitch 2 (the traversing ledge system) into two quick half-rope pitches. That would minimize the out-of-sight/out-of-earshot climbing. Don't forget your camera!

The rappels have been updated. The second one, from the top of the second pitch to the ground, is a true 31 meters. That is to say, your feet will be on the ground and the the rope will pull through the device when you are done. A true 60 meter rope is perfect... a rope that has a had a few meters cut off will leave you with a short drop.

This anchor WAS about 250 feet of tat, some of it probably 20 years old, strung around decaying boulders on a decaying ledge. Its now two half inch bolts in overhanging varnish. The new location means easy pulls and no stuckage, but make sure your ends are even.

The top anchor is updated as well and is simply two halfies in the summit by the old spinners. Chains for all.

For what its worth, the mantle is not 5.9... I think 5.7 is fair, its just that its a mantle and you can't practice it in the gym.