Too Much Cake 

FA:  Steve Hong Type:  Trad Views: 211 page views Submitted By: Mike Sokoloff on Mar 17, 2002 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

This route is about 250 feet to the right of Supercrack. You can't miss the obvious OW that starts from a pedestal and is the start of the route. A pretty burly route in general. It starts off in an OW which is very conducive to laybacking. A #5 Camalot makes this section tolerable. Where the OW constricts to thin crack there is a notch which the rope runs directly over and threatens to bind up the rope. Avoid this by placing a #0 TCU there to keep the rope out of the crack. After that, start laybacking and slamming the 1.5 Friends. Don't get tunnel vision, there are rests. Get psyched for the roof at the finish. It's burly but all there.

Protection 

Many, many #0.75 Camalots or 1.5 Friends (no fewer than 10). One #5 Camalot for the OW/layback start. One set of TCUs should suffice for the low thin-crack section.