The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Go right from where the approach trail hits the wall for a few hundred feet. This route is just left of the 5.13 corner called Death of a Cowboy (plaque). The letters TW are painted at the route's base. A long strenuous handcrack which takes some thought to negociate the crux which pulls past/over a huge chockstone. Don't get tunnel vision at this intimidating section. The majority of the route is great hands. Enjoy it!
Protection
As many hand sized pieces as you can borrow. The bottom thin-hands flack takes #2 Friends well. Bring 4 or 5 #2 Friends. Bring a couple smaller pieces but nothing micro. A #4 Friend will also be helpful. Bring slings and draws to reduce rope drag.
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