The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
From the end of the approach trail, head right up the hill until you see an obvious slot with a finger crack inside. There is a plaque at the base with the name. The 200 Select Indian Creek guidebook lists this as unnamed 5.10a fingers. A really fun, not too strenuous corner which gives one the option to utilize jamming, stemming, and laybacking techniques. It goes through a range of sizes so one does not need a huge number of any one size cam. The crux comes at the bottom where the crack is thin and requires thin (#0 TCU) protection. This climb makes a great "warmup" for some of this wall's more strenuous routes.
Protection
Doubles set of cams including TCUs down to #0. There is no wide stuff on this route.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Mar 30, 2007 rating: 5.10a/b
Enjoyable route, but it is trickier than it looks - though still fair for the grade (10-). The crux is down low passing an awkward sloping ledge. Bring small cams from green to red alien, 2-3 #2 camelots, 2-3 #1 camelots, #0.75 camelot, and one bigger piece (#3 or #3.5 camelot) for the top.
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