The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Resting on the big ledge before the upper crux.
Description
This beautiful lieback crack is positioned right in the middle of Supercrack buttress, somewhere right of Gorilla, and somewhat left of Coyne. Look for a large left leaning lieback with a couple of bulges interspersed with killer rests. The left hand wall is a really cool rippled rock that looks like little waves or small dunes on a beach. Start on a small pedestal and jam up the corner for a ways before busting into a lieback over a bulge. Easy, low angle climbing leads to another liebacking bulge up high to the anchors. A really cool climb.
Protection
A couple of cams or each size from about #0.5 Camalot to #2 Camalot. The crack changes sizes alot so you only need a couple of each size.
What a pretty seam. As an I-Creek 10d, be prepared to place gear on a lieback or cruise to the rests. Bring a couple #0.75 and 0.5 Camalots. A black tri-cam worked nicely before the layback crux. Enjoy.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Feb 28, 2006 rating: 5.10+
Best on the wall in my opinion. Great cruxes, great rests, a variety of gear, and a sprint to the finish. I used (BDs) 4x0.5, 4x0.75, 4x1, 4x2, and 1x3.... yes you could do it with 2 of each size, but it is a long pitch (120 feet?), so do the math.