This route goes up the right side of the tower between Easter Island and Thumbelina, left of a big left facing dihedral. Look for a thin hand to a zig-zag offwidth. The first pitch goes up a hand to an offwidth crack, over a bulge with cool liebacks using two cracks to a bolted belay. The second pitch goes up a short, thin crack to easier climbing to another bolted belay. Both pitches are 5.10. The last pitch goes past a bolt above the belay through some hard, bouldery 5.11 moves to a subsidary summit and another bolt. Lean across the gap between this summit and the true summit to a crack, then left to the belay and the top. Don't forget to sign the summit register. One single rap down this pitch, then it is possible to make a double rope rap with 200 foot ropes to the ground.
Protection
Cams of all sizes. It is easy to string the first two pitches together. I used up to a #4 Camalot on the first pitch, and a #3.5 Camalot is also helpful. Also bring some small cams and at least doubles of hand sized pieces. Bring two #2 and a #3 Camalots for the last pitch an a couple quickdraws.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Feb 28, 2002 rating: 5.11a
If you are looking to lighten your load of cams, skip the wide stuff. I think I did it with nothing bigger than a #3 and I didn't run it out much. The first pitch isn't very difficult where it is widest anyway.
Can be done in a single pitch with suprisingly little rope drag. You'll need a 70m cord, extra hand-sized gear (triple 1-3 Camalots) and 4 or 5 long runners. There's only a single 5.11 move with a good bolt at your waist.
I found the first pitch pretty dang challenging (but great climbing) and was glad to have some wide stuff (4 and 5 Camalot - although a second 4 or maybe a 4.5 would be better than a 5). On the last pitch, I aided to clip the bolt and then freed by going way left to start and then back right over the bolt. Would have been pretty scary otherwise.
The Bridger Jacks
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