It's hard for me to give a fifty foot route 3 stars, but this route deserves it-- a beautiful splitter in a perfect corner, it often appears in guidebooks and climbing magazine photos. Hands, then wide hands with a little arm jam for the last move to the anchors. It is located up and left from the parking pull-off. Look for a large right facing corner, leading to a sandy shelf with anchors about 50 feet up. The next corner to the left is "Dawn of an Age", a 5.10 3-5 inch corner crack which is easily toproped from the anchors.
Protection
bring a few 3 friends, a few more 3.5 friends, and maybe a 4 friend for the last move
Just a comment (as a research scientist in earth science) on Charles' description of this route as a "splitter" - Supercrack is a splitter, this route is a dihedral. Looks beautiful though!
Very high quality pitch. Short and sweet, and a great introduction to I-Creek.
By Brian Scoggins From: Laramie, WY Mar 18, 2006 rating: 5.9
Can be done with two 3.0 friends, five 3.5 friends, and one 4.0 friend (or 2 gold #2, 5 blue #3, and 1 black #3.5 camalot), if you want to sew it up. Its only 50 feet, and the 3.0 won't fit after the first 15 feet.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Nov 14, 2006
A good warm-up for the other routes at the cliff. I would recommend several #3 (blue) camalots, and 1 larger (3.5 or 4) piece for the top.
Excellent warmup. One of my favorites. Average-sized hands all the way. A small wide section at the top (4 friend).
By Brian Scoggins From: Laramie, WY Mar 23, 2008 rating: 5.9
Upon review, even placing a lot of pro, 4 #3 camalots, 2 #3.5 camalots and one optional (aka chicken) #4 camalot for the very top will almost over protect this route. Also, a plaque has appeared, dubbing this thing the "Mexican Unicorn", but is of dubious provenance. Still 5.9.
Blue Gramma Cliff
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