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Unsorted Routes:

Spaghetti Western 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 12,453
Submitted By: Joe Collins on Nov 10, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (149)
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Last week at Spaghetti Western. mmmmm

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


One of the longest and best routes at Pistol Whipped. This follows the obvious overhanging right facing hand-crack-dihedral 30 feet to the right of Coyne Crack Simulator. Some moderate liebacking leads to the beautiful hand crack which is the meat of the route. Most people will find the 5.11+ rating is a little bit generous so give it a go!


A mix of sizes from yellow aliens through #3 camalot with an emphasis on #2 camalots (5 will do). A #4 camalot will protect the OW at the top.

Photos of Spaghetti Western Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Whipper.
Rock Climbing Photo: Milking the first rest
Milking the first rest
Rock Climbing Photo: Matthew Kleinert on Spaghetti Western
Matthew Kleinert on Spaghetti Western
Rock Climbing Photo: So good! photo: C. Treiber
So good! photo: C. Treiber
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruising to the top of the steep section, now the ...
Cruising to the top of the steep section, now the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Aaron Cloud starting up the dihedral.
Aaron Cloud starting up the dihedral.
Rock Climbing Photo: Past the first crux, psyched to be putting in a go...
Past the first crux, psyched to be putting in a go...
Rock Climbing Photo: crux down low on spaghetti western
crux down low on spaghetti western
Rock Climbing Photo: Spaghetti Western, up the beautiful massive dihedr...
Spaghetti Western, up the beautiful massive dihedr...
Rock Climbing Photo: epic!
Rock Climbing Photo: my first .11 send.... so it aint 11+...
my first .11 send.... so it aint 11+...
Rock Climbing Photo: Stellar climbing on Spaghetti Western, Indian Cree...
Stellar climbing on Spaghetti Western, Indian Cree...
Rock Climbing Photo: Anyone else see the face?
Anyone else see the face?
Rock Climbing Photo: About to switch into the overhanging handcrack on ...
About to switch into the overhanging handcrack on ...

Comments on Spaghetti Western Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 29, 2015
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Dec 20, 2001
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Yellow camalots (2.5") protect the route most of the way, bat take a few blues (3.5"). If you want to lower off of, rap, or TR this climb on a single rope, you better have a 70M. I have climbed harder 10+ routes, by the way. The crux is either the very beginning where it is thin, or the slightly wider section just prior to passing the top of the bulge.
By Ben F
From: Benfield, Kolorado
Jan 31, 2002

11+, or anything more than 11- is a generous rating of this climb.

[I apologize if I sounded like I was spraying. I fully admit that I like to spray. I believe that I have only down-rated 2 climbs on this board - this one and Incredible Handcrack. In the case of IH, I said something along the lines of the route being around 9+ for most people, but harder for those with either really small or really large hands. Many on this board, including myself, have noted that the ratings at the Creek are subjective. That being said, I still believe that this climb is NOT 11+. Mr. Bubb also concurs in the previous comment. I am comparing this climb to several others in the 11 range at the Creek. At any rate, both this climb and Incredible Handcrack are very sexy and most people should not be too intimidated by their grades. If you are comfortable leading 11- here, then definitely consider giving this one a try.]
By Kirk Woerner
Sep 29, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The bottom was easier IMO than Coyne Crack Simulator since you have some feet out right. Maybe The fact that the bottom is a corner green camalot rather than straight in makes it easier.

That being said, the route is LONG and pumpy which made me hang. This a great workout because it goes slowly through a lot of sizes, getting to the easier sizes as it kicks back more.
By Laurent Meillon
From: Golden, CO
Oct 28, 2005

The new Indian Creek Guidebook rates it 5.11. Although there isn't any compulsory hard 5.11 move on the route, the overall continuity and angle, combined with the cleverness required to optimise the rests past the roof, justifies a 5.11 grade for the average hand size. But most important, it's a suberb line!
By Brian Weinstein
May 6, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

not to be missed. 11a seems fair. a variety of sizes in a quality corner.
By misterclimberman
May 10, 2006

i dunno, small hands kinda suck on this thing. i dont really have any trouble on a majority of 5.11s, but i was panting on this thing. i think 11- is sandbagging, the roof is harder than other 11-s of the same style (think pink comes to mind.) then you got all of the other climbing that sandwiches it. granted ive climbed other harder 11s, but i think solid 11 is fair, and possibly 11+? i really dont know, nor do i really care. the route is freaking superb.

By chris Kalous
Nov 8, 2006

Anchors on this got cleaned up and beefed up last year. Thanks to climbing magazine's ARI.

Chris Kalous
By Danny Inman
From: Arvada
Dec 6, 2006
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

This is the most "Incredible Hand Crack" that I have done, to date, at the creek.
By Mike
From: Phoenix
Jul 9, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

This is one of my favorite climbs at Indian Creek. A superb & aesthetic line with great moves and plentiful pro. Outstanding!
By ccmski
From: Seattle, WA
Nov 19, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Grade wars aside- its one of my favorite routes at the Creek. Long, varied, steep, fairly sustained climbing in a spectacular location- what more can you ask for?!
By Fulford
Apr 8, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Rope mgmt. beta: Place a thin-hands sized piece (probably red camalot) in the splitter to the left of the corner, just after you leave the overhanging hands corner. This will keep the rope out of the crack.

One of my favorite routes and Indian Creek!
By Matthew Tello
Jan 29, 2015

Great climb! One of my favorites in the desert. Variety of sizes in an incredible crack, starts small then goes to perfect hands in the steep section. Transfer cracks at the top of the steep section (agreed, place a red camelot in the thin hand crack on the left. Don't forget to save a couple small pieces for the upper section.

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