Me a little ways before I fell out of the thing. ...
Description
If you like Supercrack, you'll love this one too. Head up to the far left side of the cliff, left of Crack Attack and the squeeze chimney Grits and Grunt. This is an obvious right facing dihedral with a hand/fist crack that heads through a sizable roof. Just left of this crack is a horrendous looking (unnamed) 5.11 offwidth.
Jam up the crack, if you have large hands, you can hand jam through the roof, otherwise it will be fists. Continue on up to a 2 bolt anchor at 100'.
Protection
Many #3 Friends, plus doubles (at least) in the range #1.5 to #3.5 Friend. Camalots are not ideal for the route as much of the crack is at the wide end of a #2 and too narrow for the #3.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Mar 11, 2002 rating: 5.11a
What George is forgetting to mention is that the climb is hands for his bear-paws, and fists for tiny, tiny hands, but for average to small hands, it's off hands, or off fists. Thus, it's also a little harder than 5.11a. YMMV.
There is a nice alternative to starting in the right facing dihedral that avoids some loose blocks. Look left around the corner and climb a kinda dirty but still nice handcrack. It curves right and joins the climb just below the good stuff.
I have big hands and the climb felt more like solid 5.10. The size is to small for a #3 Camalot but just at the end of the #2 Camalot range. The tarango hand size worked well which is like #2.5 Camalot(if one existed ). I recomend this climb for the leader on the verge of breaking into the 11 range, those with big hands.
I consider my paws to be average size, maybe slightly larger, and this route was hands to off-hands for me. The corner was supereb though. Don't forget to get your feet IN the crack. A buddy of mine tried lead it right after me and didn't keep both feet in the crack, so he did'nt get the flash. Also, you may want to consider belaying from on top, it was a bitch to rap down and clean gear. With my hand size, I felt like the rating was solid, 11-.
i have fairly small hands, and this climb was a struggle. in the roof, i couldn't get jams, nor could i get fist's. i had to lie-back parts of the roof, whitch made it hard to place gear. sick climb for sure.
By Dpurf From: Superior Mar 19, 2007 rating: 5.11a
I would not call this a Classic, because of the Sh*t rock at the start. But it is a very good climb and one you should do. The rating on this climb is all based on hand size. Big hands have fun. Small hands, pray to stay in, average hands, move fast through the lower part of the crack. And for the guy who is looking for a 2.5 BD, there is one out there. It is call a 3.0 WC Friend. It works great.
By Tavis Ricksecker From: flagstaff, az Nov 26, 2007 rating: 5.11a
A #2 camalot, then #3.5 friend, then back to #2 camalots. Only slightly wide at the steep bit for those with big hands. If you have big hands and you cruised Supercrack, this one should be a cruise too. I found the exit moves at the top more tricky than the steep bit.