This climb is located not too far to the right of the approach trail as you face the cliff.This climb is the left of 2 nice looking cracks you will see as you arrive at the cliff. This climb starts as fingers/rattly fingers and widens at the top to cupped hands/tight fists (if your hands are small). The business has a left-facing offset similar to Coyne Crack at Super Crack Buttress - hence the name. This is a great choice for a first 11- lead in the Creek. There is a great stance (very small ledge) about 4 feet off the deck from here, you can place a piece or two high and gun it. The crux is short and the rock quality is good. It only gets 2 stars because its a short climb.
Protection
Bring one of each from 1.5 - 3.5 Friends. I did not have a 3.5 and was alright. This climb is short - probably no more than 50 or 60 feet. At the end of the crack step right to the anchors.
Not to be rude, but why do you guys care so much about the grades? Low self esteem? If ever there was a place where grades are subjective, the creek is it, so I can't imagine anyone would lend any credence to your claims of downgrading. Coyne crack was easier for me than No Name Crack. That doesn't mean that Coyne isn't 12 and No Name isn't a 10. Give your egos a rest and give some thought to why you climb; you might enjoy it more.
Pistol Whipped
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