The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
BETA PHOTO: Here is a look at this unnamed climb, 5.10 in the ...
Description
On the extreme right side of Supercrack buttress, just left of the giant leaning piller/cave that you go through to get to Anazazi. Look for a shallow right-facing corner with a great 50' near-vertical hand crack formed by a small pillar.
This is a short, fun, and moderate climb. Start out on a ramp deep in the corner, pull over a bulge with increasingly good hands, enjoy a great section of perfect hands, and scramble the last few feet to the top to a two-bolt anchor.
This is a good warmup, described in both Stewart Green's and Fred Knapp's books as "Unnamed." Green calls it 5.10, Knapp gives it a 10+, but it seemed closer to 5.9.
By Matt Chan From: Denver, CO Nov 2, 2005 rating: 5.8+
A larger cam for the OW section, but mostly thin hands to hands. 8+ crux is at the very top.
Ratings, ratings, ratings. How subjective they are. Though short, I found the difficulty to be similar to other 5.10s that I have climbed at the Creek - makes you pant, but not outrageously hard. I found getting around the bulge the crux, but maybe that's because I am tall, and had a much bigger arse the last time I got on it!
This is a nice little beginner route for the Indian Creek crack-climb genre. The crack neophytes such as myself will appreciate this relatively short route with face holds for feet along the concretion-laden sandstone bulge in the lower section. Where other 5.10 routes on this crag left me withering at the base, I got up this one. The rating is more like a 5.8+ or 5.9.
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