Portions of Reservior Wall are on private land and should not be climbed MORE INFO >>>
Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldn’t be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you don’t want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek.
Wigglin Worm start
Description
An enduro fest! This route is 140' long so bring two ropes. This route is located about 20 yards to the right of Pente. It tackles a funky wide start (maybe a #5 camalot if you haul it up there but you can get aliens behind the flake a little ways off the ground) followed by a section of thin hands, to perfect hands over a roof, to wide hands for a long ways up the right facing dihedral. A funky wigglin' section caps the route (big gear not necessary).
Protection
Lots of hand sized pieces ranging from #2 Friend through #3 Camalot. An Alien or two may be helpful for psychological pro behind the loose flake about 10' off the ground.
This route is super cool. Keep looking into the crack on the way up and you will see some amazing crystal formations. Gorgeous.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Apr 18, 2002 rating: 5.11
Survey sais.... This route is 125' long. The hardest single move for me was the OW at the bottom, which was awkward to get up. The chockstones at the back dumped sand when I tried to use them.
After placing a "psychological" piece (psycho-illogical, maybe) behind the flake, where the height was becomeing questionably dangerous, the moves back off to 5.9+ until good gear can be had. Call this route 5.11 (solid, sustained) and 5.9+ R.
The widening splitter through the bulge just left of the route at mid-height is rad, and doesn't get wide like the top of WW. A cool step across accesses good hands. Natham Martin put this one up, or so I heard. I don't think this makes the route any harder, but you won't need anything bigger than a 3.5F for it either...
Pulling the roof is not as tough as it looks. this route keeps coming at you. excellent variety for a splitter crack. May seem not as classic with Pente and Slot Machine so close by, but definitely worthy.
This is a great route. I personally thought the opening moves were really easy - no wide technique necessary - but I did see people in our party making this section look really hard. You can get a good sideways undercling fingerlock (I won't tell you where, but you'll figure it out) - even for big fingered people - if you pull out on it as you're stepping up, your fingers lock tight, and you can high step onto the good feet and get finger locks in the back on the left............. I thought the top was strenuous, I layed back most of the wide part with the good edge, as my hands were too small for fists and I wasn't into stacking..
Reservoir Wall
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