The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>
Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldn’t be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you don’t want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek.
This stellar left facing dihedral is located about 30 yards left of Pente. This is not in the guidebook but there is a plague at the base which identifies the route. There are 5.12 routes on both the left and right of Raja. Can be done with a single 60m rope. The route starts very thin (blue TCUs) with no real feet for the first 15' : this is probably the technical crux of the route. A number of good rests are interspersed between strenous thin layback sections for the rest of the way
Protection
lots of TCUs (blue, yellow, and orange sizes), as well as a few #.75, 1, and 2s for the occasional wider parts. Basically a mix of sizes with an emphasis on TCUs
If you have bigger fingers the beginning of this route is full bore - a power liebacking sprint. My girlfriend with smaller fingers then did it and just casually hiked the beginning - she said she would comfortably solo it! A good reminder of the "individual" nature of Indian Creek grades! Otherwise this is a worthy route, with a couple of good rests.
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