Portions of Reservior Wall are on private land and should not be climbed MORE INFO >>>
Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldn’t be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you don’t want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek.
Excuse Station (left) and No Excuse (right).
Description
This is one of the best thin hand cracks at Indian Creek. From Pente walk left along the base of the wall for about 200-300 yards. Find the obvious splitter with a left facing dihedral immediately to the right (No Excuse- funky 5.10++). The route starts off as perfect, cruiser thin hands (maybe a bit strenuous for fatter handed folks) to a good rest below the crux final 15' of the route. The crux involves tough ring locks with some features for feet. The route is maybe 90' and can easily be done with one 60m rope.
Protection
A mess of #1 Camalots (or 2 and 2.5 friends), as well as a couple .75 camalots (maybe a .5 too) for the crux at the top. A #2 camalot was barely too big to fit.
sweet route, definitely worth the hike down to it, especially when combined with its neighbor No Excuse. I'd recommend saving a .75 camalot for the end