The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
This is the leftmost detached tower in the Bridger Jack group. Kind of looks like a thumb, has a twin called Sparkling Touch just to the right. The trail along the bottom of Bridger Jack is obvious - go all the way left. The route starts in the obvious wide crack that leads to the left arete of Thumbelina. We belayed below the third class leading to this wide crack, but whatever works best for you. If you have a 50M rope, you probably want to get right up to the crack to belay.
The route is very obvious - follow the arete and bolts to the summit. The initial wide crack goes at 5.6ish, but the face to the right is climbable as well. As the leader I felt more secure wedged in the crack. The route has many rests and several bouldery cruxes. Two cruxes in particular will probably get your attention. The lower crux (10+/11-) was slightly burly but had positive holds and a nice new bolt just below. The upper crux is the business. Most people describe it as quite desperate. Personally, I describe it as A0, but my partner got it without a slip. This crux is at the last two bolts - one of which is bomber. Once past this, head left then up right to the final mantle onto the summit, or step right to the obvious steep crack and follow that to the summit mantle. If taking the steep crack, maybe include an extra hand sized piece or two in the rack.
Soft and precise shoes will undoubtedly help the struggle. Good luck.
Protection
1 each cams blue TCU to #3 Camalot, 1 set nuts, 8 2 foot runners, 8 QDs
The crux of the route is fairly desperate and the hangers on the two bolts inspire little confidence. Clipping the second bolt at the crux section is extremely balancey. I thought it was a pretty tough call whether to clip in the rope or to actually grab the draw. Stick in there because the climbing eases off pretty quickly.
Double rope rap but stand well back from the tower for the pull as the crack at the top of the formation is a definite rope snagger.
I did this route a loooooooong time ago. I remember it being outstandingly fun. But when we did it there were no established anchors on top. Which made getting off more of s concern than getting up. I have nightmares about the marginal mank we rapped off. Has there been permanent anchors established?
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