The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Caroline Schaumann on an Unknown crack on the 4x4 ...
Description
The 4X4 wall is one of the best places to climb when it is a little too warm to be in the sun. The most popular routes are in the shade and face North. Expect a more adventurous feel at this wall compared to the more popular areas. On many of the classic routes, the varnish is very dark, which translates into some of the best rock quality in the creek. Be aware though, there is a little loose rock here and there, as well as some lichen due to the walls northern exposure. Since the climbs do not get constant traffic, the inside walls of the crack may be a bit dusty / dirty (I once had a partner that complained his finger stacks would not stick because of this issue. He was trying to send "Hydraulic Pump" 5.12+).
Routes range from 5.10 to 5.12+ (to my immediate knowledge)with a fair amount of 5.11 to be found across the broad face. Bring your standard Indian Creek cam assortment with emphasis on #1 and #1.5 friends for the finger crack testpieces. A handful of #2 and #3 Camalots as well as #4 Friends will help you up the namesake 4X4 (5.10+), which is highly recommended.
Getting There
This the first buttress encountered on right side of Beef Basin Road. The majority of the climbs on this wall face North toward the main road. Several options exist for the approach. It is advised to check with the current state of Indian Creek camping options before deciding where to pitch your tent, or approach this wall. In years past one could park just past the turn off for Bridger Jack camping and find cairns and a trail that takes one up the talus slope to the base of the routes. Use good judgement in your approach. It is not uncommon to be the only party at the wall.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for 4X4:
When parking just before the cattle guard and approaching up the main trail, this route is visible as a big hands crack in a slot with a triangular roof just before a set of anchors. From the top of the trail navigate a 100 yards or so right (or north) to the base of the route.The climb is straight forward plugging and chugging until the roof where the size changes to about 4 inches. After turning the roof (crux), the anchors are just above. A...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
massive rockfall on the far, far left side of 4X4 sunday night. approximately 5 years ago there was a fairly good sized rock fall in the same location that left a pillar of sorts with a broken off arete. it looks like this whole thing fell down. not sure if any routes were affected, will have to investigate when i get some time.
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