The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Supercrack Buttress is probably the most popular/crowded area at Indian Creek. Some of the most famous cracks in the desert are here - Supercrack, Incredible Handcrack, Coyne Crack, etc. Expect stellar climbing with good protection and a casual approach, but don't expect solitude.
Getting There
From the main parking area about 4 miles past Newspaper Rock, Supercrack Buttress will be obvious. Follow a well worn trail to the base, and look for the crowds to mark the start of most routes.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Supercrack Buttress:
This awesome splitter is located a couple routes to the left of Supercrack. Climb difficult rattly fingers for about 30 feet and then climb thin hands to the anchors. ...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
After going to S.C. Buttress earlier last week I noticed that on many of the more popular climbs (S.C, 3AM, IHC, etc....) the anchors are in need of some care. The bolts are all sound, but the some of the chains and rings are pretty worn. The quicklink on the right anchor on Supercrack is worn about 60% through(top and bottom). Amazingly enough a group was toproping THROUGH the anchor. I had an extra quicklink, but no pliers to unscrew the old one. I was hoping some of the regulars might think about updating some quick links here and there. Hopefully, next time I'll have some extras and some pliers/cutters to make these a little safer. I'd be nice if just a few people left some new gear so we don't have to be witness to a splatter.
Just came back from Indian Creek over thanksgiving, and the bolts on IHC, supercrack, and 3AM crack all look bomber. (they may have been replaced/enhanced since Scott's post). I would agree that lowering through them would be hard on the gear though