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Blue Gramma is more or less the first major cliff (for climbing) in Indian Creek. It doesn't see as much traffic as the "big name" cliffs, but many of the routes are only 50 feet high or so and there are a great many worthwhile 5.9 and 5.10 routes, most of them "unnamed". This was the first wall I visited on my first trip to Indian Creek and it was a perfect intro. In fact the first route I ever did at Indian Creek, an unnamed 5.9+, is still to my mind one of the best I've done. You don't need 8 of every friend size here!
Since it receives less traffic, this crag is a bit harder to find. It's a mile or so before you get to Supercrack buttress, at a good pull-out on the right. Look for a series of clean but comparatively short dihedrals near to the road, maybe 2-3 miles after Newspaper Rock. The approach is quite short as there isn't much of a talus slope.
19 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Blue Gramma Cliff
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Blue Gramma Cliff:
Unnamed 9+ (big hands dihedral) 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Dawn of an Age 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Hayley's Heyday 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Unnamed II (fingers through fists) 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Petrelli Motors 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Unnamed 10+ (steep thin hands dihedral to pod) 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Blue Gramma 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Formerly Aided 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Desert Siren (Tower) 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Featured Route For Blue Gramma Cliff
Blue Gramma 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c UT : Moab Area : ... : Blue Gramma Cliff
Climb up an initial steep move with a 1" or 1.5" cam to access the flake and slab- climb up easy moves leap-frogging the 1" or 1.5" gear to save it for later if you are shy on gear. Continue up to darker and steeper rock, placing a few larger cams (1-2 each 2"-3.5" cams) in wide spots, again to save your 1" and 1.5" gear. Access a good 'pod' in the flake which provides a great stance from which to launch the assault on the meat of the route- the next 10 meters, which will be primarily lie-backs ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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