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Reservoir Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arch Arrival T 
Carruthers-Hauser T 
Cyborg T 
Dr. Carl T 
Dreadasaurus T 
Ernie Used to Box T 
Excuse Station T 
Finger Food T 
From Switzerland With Love T 
Frosted Flakes T 
Good Excuse T 
Gurka T 
Left Crack T 
Less Than Zero T 
Machete T 
Marvelous! T 
Middle Crack T 
Mud dahbber  T 
Ninja T 
No Excuse T 
Overlook, The T 
Pat's Crack T 
Pente T 
Pirate Treasure  T 
Raja T 
Rez Dawgs T 
Sharka Zulu T 
Skank on the Hanglow T 
Slot Machine T 
Sumo T 
Three Fools T 
Trust it T 
Unknown T 
Unknown 2 pitch route left of 3 fools T 
Unknown 5.10 T 
Unknown 5.11- (really long thin hands corner) T 
Unknown Offwidth R of wigglin' worm T 
Unnamed 38 - wide to fists and kind of wavy T 
Unnamed 5.10 ( 45 in 2013 Edition) T 
Unnamed 5.10 (Bloom Route 12) - popular hands corner T 
Warm-Up Handcrack T 
Wigglin' Worm T 
Will-Mento T 

Reservoir Wall Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.08324, -109.56235 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 20,445
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ben F on Nov 30, 1999
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Happened upon this rock fall just as the dust was ...

  • Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This cliff stays shaded for much of the day and is good during the late spring or early fall. Overall, route concentration here isn’t quite as high as some other cliffs, but route quality is.

    Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldn’t be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you don’t want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek.

    Getting There 

    Go approximately 8 miles past Newspaper Rock. Pass the reservoir on your right. Just a bit further down the road and also on your right, across from the road for Beef Basin, is the parking for this wall. Pass through the gate and veer slightly right, eventually hitting a trail. There are 2 branches off this trail. The first one puts you closer to the road, near Pente and the further trail leads you to about where Excuse Station is.

    Climbing Season

    Weather station 11.0 miles from here

    43 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',12],['3 Stars',19],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Reservoir Wall

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Reservoir Wall:
    Dr. Carl   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad   
    Warm-Up Handcrack   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Sumo   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 120'   
    Pente   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad   
    Unknown 5.11- (really long thin hands corner)   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
    Wigglin' Worm   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad   
    Finger Food   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 80'   
    Trust it   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
    Ernie Used to Box   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Excuse Station   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad   
    Slot Machine   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
    Ninja   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
    The Overlook   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
    Frosted Flakes   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
    Middle Crack   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 60'   
    Gurka   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Marvelous!   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Less Than Zero   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Cyborg   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Trad, 90'   
    From Switzerland With Love   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Trad, 2 pitches, 60'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Reservoir Wall

    Featured Route For Reservoir Wall
    Rock Climbing Photo: Excuse Station (left) and No Excuse (right).

    Excuse Station 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  UT : Moab Area : ... : Reservoir Wall
    This is one of the best thin hand cracks at Indian Creek. From Pente walk left along the base of the wall for about 200-300 yards. Find the obvious splitter with a left facing dihedral immediately to the right (No Excuse- funky 5.10++). The route starts off as perfect, cruiser thin hands (maybe a bit strenuous for fatter handed folks) to a good rest below the crux final 15' of the route. The crux involves tough ring locks with some features for feet. The route is maybe 90' and can easily be...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

    Photos of Reservoir Wall Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Em getting her groove on the technical, eldo-esque...
    Em getting her groove on the technical, eldo-esque...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Resevior Wall is tall and clean, giving rise to fa...
    Resevior Wall is tall and clean, giving rise to fa...
    Rock Climbing Photo: the weather on it's way..
    the weather on it's way..
    Rock Climbing Photo: The crux move on "from switzerland with love&...
    The crux move on "from switzerland with love&...
    Rock Climbing Photo: I believe this shot was taken looking back toward ...
    I believe this shot was taken looking back toward ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Parks on the walk down from Resevoir Wall at...
    BETA PHOTO: Chris Parks on the walk down from Resevoir Wall at...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Indian Creek!
    Indian Creek!

    Comments on Reservoir Wall Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Ben F
    From: Benfield, Kolorado
    Nov 25, 2001
    I was told (this past week) that climbing on the portions of the cliff facing the road is not a problem. However, approach as stated above and do not cross the private property. Note that this is what I "heard" and it needs to be verified as does my closure warning.
    By Rob T
    Sep 11, 2006
    As of May of 06, Heidi(Dugout Ranch) would still prefer that climbers not climb on the front face of Resevoir. It sucks, but there are tons of walls down there, i don't think we really need to force the issue on this one.
    By Monty
    From: Golden, CO
    Oct 17, 2009
    Not sure if the access has changed, but it doesn't seem as if anyone is following/ know about these guidelines as there is no information actually posted at any of the bulletin boards or at the wall.
    By Devin Fin
    From: DURANGO
    Jun 29, 2010
    big rock fell around the over look speedy Gonzalez area mid June .. hope the two routs made it? this wall is coming apart. over the last ten years i have seen it falling off from pods wall to excuse station!

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