Donnelly Canyon

Some cliffs are occasionally closed due to raptor nesting. 14-day camping limit. MORE INFO >>> Check the Friends of Indian Creek website for up-to-date information, as well as the BLM's Monticello Field Office page. The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

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Description 

As you stand in the major parking area wondering if you'll be able to find a warm-up with no parties camped on it at the Super Crack, Donnelly, Battle of the Bulge cluster, look northwest. You can't miss seeing the well-traveled splitter Generic Crack. This is the most prominent feature on the Donnelly Canyon wall. Donnelly Canyon is home to several moderate climbs and consequently, hordes of gumbies. However, this is Indian Creek and there are several good lines on this wall.

Another lesser know attraction of Donnelly Canyon is its acoustics. After a day of posing at either Super Crack Buttress or DC, you may find yourself enjoying a beer in the parking lot while you spray. When you shut-up long enough to belch, be sure to aim in the direction of Generic Crack. If you have any talent at all, then your mating call will be well amplified as it echoes and resonates out of the canyon. To witness this awe-inspiring feat alone is worth the drive to the Creek.

Getting There 

Look for the major parking lot on the right about 4 miles or so past Newspaper Rock. The wall for Donnelly is the one on the west that is more or less perpendicular to the road.

The Classics

Featured Route For Donnelly Canyon

Generic Crack 5.9+  UT : Moab Area : ... : Donnelly Canyon

As described in the Donnelly Canyon intro, this route is quite obvious. On my first visit to the area, I said, "That must be Supercrack." I was wrong, but this is one striking line.From the parking lot, cross the drainage and head up canyon about 50 yards, then follow an obvious and well built trail up and left to the bottom of the route. The first pitch is 120 feet long so don't forget the trail line. The first 25 feet or so are the awkward...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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Another fine day at Donnelly Canyon offering a ton...