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As you stand in the major parking area wondering if you'll be able to find a warm-up with no parties camped on it at the Super Crack, Donnelly, Battle of the Bulge cluster, look northwest. You can't miss seeing the well-traveled splitter Generic Crack. This is the most prominent feature on the Donnelly Canyon wall. Donnelly Canyon is home to several moderate climbs and consequently, hordes of gumbies. However, this is Indian Creek and there are several good lines on this wall.
Look for the major parking lot on the right about 4 miles or so past Newspaper Rock. The wall for Donnelly is the one on the west that is more or less perpendicular to the road.
27 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Donnelly Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Donnelly Canyon:
Binou's Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch
Chocolate Corner 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Generic Crack 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Trad
The Thing 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
5.10 Corner 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 80'
Elephant Man 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
The Naked and Dead 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b R Trad
The Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad
Mr. Peanut 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Unknown 5.10+ (left of Naked and the Dead) 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Unknown Pod Climb. 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Sleeve of Wizard 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Trad, 105'
Naked and the Dead Variation 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, 40'
Twitterpated 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, 70'
Dos Hermanos 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Trad
Fuel Injected Hardbody 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Let 'er Buck 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Sport, 100'
Ocean Negro 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Half Man, Half Alligator Shark 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ E7 6c Trad, 80'
Featured Route For Donnelly Canyon
Let 'er Buck 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b UT : Moab Area : ... : Donnelly Canyon
This route has the unique distinction of being the only sport climb at the Creek, and a great one at that! Let 'R Buck makes for a good end of the day/weekend/month trip climb when your paws and feet are too sore to shove in any more cracks. Located to the right of Binou's Crack.The crux on this route is getting to the second bolt. If you botched the sequence right at the bolt, then you might hit the deck (or come really close). Having the second bolt clipped is nice, but maybe not ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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