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Donnelly Canyon

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.10 Corner T 
Ansaid Tower T 
Binou's Crack T 
Chocolate Corner T 
Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe, The T 
Dos Hermanos T 
Drainpipe T 
Elephant Man T 
Fuel Injected Hardbody T 
Generic Crack T 
Half Man, Half Alligator Shark T 
JARNI ZVRAT-KY T 
Let 'er Buck S 
Mr. Peanut T 
Naked and Dead, The T 
Naked and the Dead Variation T 
Ocean Negro T 
Owl Crack T 
Rainbow Sign T 
Sister Skywalker T 
Sleeve of Wizard T 
Thing, The T 
Twitterpated T 
Unknown T 
Unknown 5.10+ T 
Unknown AKA Reclamation T 
Unknown Pod Climb. T 
Violently happy T 

Donnelly Canyon Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.0398, -109.5436 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 36,559
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ben F on May 12, 2002
Forecast:
Tonight

67°
Tuesday

88° | 65°
Wednesday

96° | 66°
Thursday

97° | 66°
Friday

94° | 65°
Saturday

90° | 66°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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cold morning. not one person in the canyon...time ...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

As you stand in the major parking area wondering if you'll be able to find a warm-up with no parties camped on it at the Super Crack, Donnelly, Battle of the Bulge cluster, look northwest. You can't miss seeing the well-traveled splitter Generic Crack. This is the most prominent feature on the Donnelly Canyon wall. Donnelly Canyon is home to several moderate climbs and consequently, hordes of gumbies. However, this is Indian Creek and there are several good lines on this wall.

Another lesser know attraction of Donnelly Canyon is its acoustics. After a day of posing at either Super Crack Buttress or DC, you may find yourself enjoying a beer in the parking lot while you spray. When you shut-up long enough to belch, be sure to aim in the direction of Generic Crack. If you have any talent at all, then your mating call will be well amplified as it echoes and resonates out of the canyon. To witness this awe-inspiring feat alone is worth the drive to the Creek.

Getting There 

Look for the major parking lot on the right about 4 miles or so past Newspaper Rock. The wall for Donnelly is the one on the west that is more or less perpendicular to the road.

Climbing Season



Weather station 13.3 miles from here

28 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',11],['5.11',9],['5.12',3],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Donnelly Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Donnelly Canyon:
Binou's Crack   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   
Chocolate Corner   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
The Thing   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Generic Crack   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad   
Elephant Man   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
The Naked and Dead   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad   
5.10 Corner   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 80'   
Owl Crack   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Mr. Peanut   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Unknown 5.10+   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Drainpipe   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad   
The Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad   
JARNI ZVRAT-KY   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Naked and the Dead Variation   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 40'   
Twitterpated   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 70'   
Dos Hermanos   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad   
Fuel Injected Hardbody   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Let 'er Buck   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 100'   
Ocean Negro   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Half Man, Half Alligator Shark   5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Trad, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Donnelly Canyon

Featured Route For Donnelly Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Top no hands. Crucial!!

Generic Crack 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  UT : Moab Area : ... : Donnelly Canyon
As described in the Donnelly Canyon intro, this route is quite obvious. On my first visit to the area, I said, "That must be Supercrack." I was wrong, but this is one striking line.From the parking lot, cross the drainage and head up canyon about 50 yards, then follow an obvious and well built trail up and left to the bottom of the route. The first pitch is 120 feet long so don't forget the trail line. The first 25 feet or so are the awkward crux of the route, then you're in hand jam heaven...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Donnelly Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo:
BETA PHOTO
Rock Climbing Photo: perfection
perfection
Rock Climbing Photo: Another fine day at Donnelly Canyon offering a ton...
Another fine day at Donnelly Canyon offering a ton...

Comments on Donnelly Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alexander Nees
From: Grand Junction, CO
Feb 6, 2012
Can anyone provide information about the good-looking tight-hands (?) crack that is a bit left of Binou's Crack? It's in the back of a tight flare and ends under a roof. Maybe 80', with a modern-looking chain anchor?

EDIT: thanks for the info Devin. Maybe I'll get a chance to do this one soon; I'll post it up here if I do.
By slim
Administrator
Apr 2, 2012
yeah, i seem to remember thinking 10c or so.
By Alex Haeger
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 3, 2015
I was in the creek for the first time last weekend and was unsure about where the Donnelly Canyon cliffs start based on descriptions here and in the guidebook. After running into a second group in the same predicament, I figured it would be good to post here some more info. The Donnelly Canyon cliff line can be seen from the parking lot it shares with supercrack. From the parking lot, take the trail on the left, opposite of the toilets, and work your way to the cliffs that start right away on the left. Generic Crack is the first giant semi-worn splitter you see. Don't hike way back into the canyon unless you're looking for some obscure lines!

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