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Donnelly Canyon
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.10 Corner 
Ansaid Tower 
Binou's Crack 
Chocolate Corner 
Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe, The 
Dos Hermanos 
Drainpipe 
Elephant Man 
Fuel Injected Hardbody 
Generic Crack 
Half Man, Half Alligator Shark 
Let 'er Buck 
Mr. Peanut 
Naked and Dead, The 
Naked and the Dead Variation 
Ocean Negro 
Owl Crack 
Rainbow Sign 
Ronen -Z- Rat 
Sister Skywalker 
Sleeve of Wizard 
Thing, The 
Twitterpated 
Unknown 
Unknown 5.10+ (left of Naked and the Dead) 
Unknown AKA Reclamation 
Unknown Pod Climb. 

Donnelly Canyon 


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Ben F on May 12, 2002

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BETA PHOTO

Description 

As you stand in the major parking area wondering if you'll be able to find a warm-up with no parties camped on it at the Super Crack, Donnelly, Battle of the Bulge cluster, look northwest. You can't miss seeing the well-traveled splitter Generic Crack. This is the most prominent feature on the Donnelly Canyon wall. Donnelly Canyon is home to several moderate climbs and consequently, hordes of gumbies. However, this is Indian Creek and there are several good lines on this wall.

Another lesser know attraction of Donnelly Canyon is its acoustics. After a day of posing at either Super Crack Buttress or DC, you may find yourself enjoying a beer in the parking lot while you spray. When you shut-up long enough to belch, be sure to aim in the direction of Generic Crack. If you have any talent at all, then your mating call will be well amplified as it echoes and resonates out of the canyon. To witness this awe-inspiring feat alone is worth the drive to the Creek.


Getting There 

Look for the major parking lot on the right about 4 miles or so past Newspaper Rock. The wall for Donnelly is the one on the west that is more or less perpendicular to the road.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Donnelly Canyon:
Binou's Crack   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch   
Generic Crack   5.9+     Trad   
Chocolate Corner   5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
The Thing   5.10-     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
5.10 Corner   5.10-     Trad, 80 feet   
Elephant Man   5.10-     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
The Naked and Dead   5.10 R     Trad   
Drainpipe   5.10     Trad   
The Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe   5.10     Trad   
Unknown Pod Climb.   5.10+     Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet   
Mr. Peanut   5.10+     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Unknown 5.10+ (left of Naked and the Dead)   5.10+     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Naked and the Dead Variation   5.11     Trad, 40 feet   
Dos Hermanos   5.12-     Trad   
Fuel Injected Hardbody   5.12- PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Let 'er Buck   5.12b     Sport, 100 feet   
Ocean Negro   5.12     Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet   
Half Man, Half Alligator Shark   5.13-     Trad, 80 feet   
Browse More Classics in Donnelly Canyon

Featured Route For Donnelly Canyon
Past the Crux and enjoying the fine Arete Climbing.  Photo by Alex Cooper.

Let 'er Buck 5.12b  UT : Moab Area : ... : Donnelly Canyon
This route has the unique distinction of being the only sport climb at the Creek, and a great one at that! Let 'R Buck makes for a good end of the day/weekend/month trip climb when your paws and feet are too sore to shove in any more cracks. Located to the right of Binou's Crack.The crux on this route is getting to the second bolt. If you botched the sequence right at the bolt, then you might hit the deck (or come really close). Having the second bolt clipped is nice, but maybe not ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of Donnelly Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Another fine day at Donnelly Canyon offering a ton of fun.

Another fine day at Donnelly Canyon offering a ton...


Comments on Donnelly Canyon Add Comment
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By Alexander Nees
From: Grand Junction, CO
Feb 6, 2012

Can anyone provide information about the good-looking tight-hands (?) crack that is a bit left of Binou's Crack? It's in the back of a tight flare and ends under a roof. Maybe 80', with a modern-looking chain anchor?

EDIT: thanks for the info Devin. Maybe I'll get a chance to do this one soon; I'll post it up here if I do.

By slim
Apr 2, 2012

yeah, i seem to remember thinking 10c or so.

By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Mar 8, 2013

posted that route .. under Rone-Z-Rat 5.11- with more traffic this thing will become a classic ..