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Donnelly Canyon

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.10 Corner 
Ansaid Tower 
Binou's Crack 
Chocolate Corner 
Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe, The 
Dos Hermanos 
Elephant Man 
Fuel Injected Hardbody 
Generic Crack 
Half Man, Half Alligator Shark 
Let 'er Buck 
Mr. Peanut 
Naked and Dead, The 
Naked and the Dead Variation 
Ocean Negro 
Owl Crack 
Rainbow Sign 
Sister Skywalker 
Sleeve of Wizard 
Thing, The 
Unknown 5.10+ (left of Naked and the Dead) 
Unknown AKA Reclamation 
Unknown Pod Climb. 

Donnelly Canyon 

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Location: 38.0398, -109.5436 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 156,241
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ben F on May 12, 2002
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You & This Area
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cold morning. not one person in the canyon...time ...


As you stand in the major parking area wondering if you'll be able to find a warm-up with no parties camped on it at the Super Crack, Donnelly, Battle of the Bulge cluster, look northwest. You can't miss seeing the well-traveled splitter Generic Crack. This is the most prominent feature on the Donnelly Canyon wall. Donnelly Canyon is home to several moderate climbs and consequently, hordes of gumbies. However, this is Indian Creek and there are several good lines on this wall.

Another lesser know attraction of Donnelly Canyon is its acoustics. After a day of posing at either Super Crack Buttress or DC, you may find yourself enjoying a beer in the parking lot while you spray. When you shut-up long enough to belch, be sure to aim in the direction of Generic Crack. If you have any talent at all, then your mating call will be well amplified as it echoes and resonates out of the canyon. To witness this awe-inspiring feat alone is worth the drive to the Creek.

Getting There 

Look for the major parking lot on the right about 4 miles or so past Newspaper Rock. The wall for Donnelly is the one on the west that is more or less perpendicular to the road.

27 Total Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Donnelly Canyon:
Binou's Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   
Chocolate Corner   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Generic Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad   
The Thing   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
5.10 Corner   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 80'   
Elephant Man   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Drainpipe   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad   
The Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad   
The Naked and Dead   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b R     Trad   
Unknown Pod Climb.   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Mr. Peanut   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Unknown 5.10+ (left of Naked and the Dead)   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Sleeve of Wizard   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Trad, 105'   
Naked and the Dead Variation   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, 40'   
Twitterpated   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, 70'   
Dos Hermanos   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad   
Fuel Injected Hardbody   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Let 'er Buck   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 100'   
Ocean Negro   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Half Man, Half Alligator Shark   5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ E7 6c     Trad, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Donnelly Canyon

Featured Route For Donnelly Canyon
Past the Crux and enjoying the fine Arete Climbing.  Photo by Alex Cooper.

Let 'er Buck 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b  UT : Moab Area : ... : Donnelly Canyon
This route has the unique distinction of being the only sport climb at the Creek, and a great one at that! Let 'R Buck makes for a good end of the day/weekend/month trip climb when your paws and feet are too sore to shove in any more cracks. Located to the right of Binou's Crack.The crux on this route is getting to the second bolt. If you botched the sequence right at the bolt, then you might hit the deck (or come really close). Having the second bolt clipped is nice, but maybe not ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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Another fine day at Donnelly Canyon offering a ton of fun.
Another fine day at Donnelly Canyon offering a ton...
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By Alexander Nees
From: Grand Junction, CO
Feb 6, 2012

Can anyone provide information about the good-looking tight-hands (?) crack that is a bit left of Binou's Crack? It's in the back of a tight flare and ends under a roof. Maybe 80', with a modern-looking chain anchor?

EDIT: thanks for the info Devin. Maybe I'll get a chance to do this one soon; I'll post it up here if I do.

By slim
Apr 2, 2012

yeah, i seem to remember thinking 10c or so.