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Donnelly Canyon

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5.10 Corner 
Ansaid Tower 
Binou's Crack 
Chocolate Corner 
crack just to left of Drainpipe, The 
Dos Hermanos 
Drainpipe 
Elephant Man 
Fuel Injected Hardbody 
Generic Crack 
Let 'er Buck 
Mr. Peanut 
Naked and Dead, The 
Naked and the Dead Variation 
Ocean Negro 
Unknown 
Unknown 5.10+ (left of Naked&the Dead) 
Unknown AKA Reclamation 
Unknown Pod Climb. 

Donnelly Canyon


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Submitted By: Ben F on May 12, 2002
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard
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Some cliffs are occasionally closed due to raptor nesting. 14-day camping limit. MORE INFO >>>

BETA PHOTO

Description 

As you stand in the major parking area wondering if you'll be able to find a warm-up with no parties camped on it at the Super Crack, Donnelly, Battle of the Bulge cluster, look northwest. You can't miss seeing the well-traveled splitter Generic Crack. This is the most prominent feature on the Donnelly Canyon wall. Donnelly Canyon is home to several moderate climbs and consequently, hordes of gumbies. However, this is Indian Creek and there are several good lines on this wall.

Another lesser know attraction of Donnelly Canyon is its acoustics. After a day of posing at either Super Crack Buttress or DC, you may find yourself enjoying a beer in the parking lot while you spray. When you shut-up long enough to belch, be sure to aim in the direction of Generic Crack. If you have any talent at all, then your mating call will be well amplified as it echoes and resonates out of the canyon. To witness this awe-inspiring feat alone is worth the drive to the Creek.


Getting There 

Look for the major parking lot on the right about 4 miles or so past Newspaper Rock. The wall for Donnelly is the one on the west that is more or less perpendicular to the road.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Donnelly Canyon:
Binou's Crack   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch   
Chocolate Corner   5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Generic Crack   5.9+     Trad   
5.10 Corner   5.10-     Trad, 80 feet   
Elephant Man   5.10-     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
The Naked and Dead   5.10 R     Trad   
The crack just to left of Drainpipe   5.10     Trad   
Unknown Pod Climb.   5.10+     Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet   
Mr. Peanut   5.10+     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Naked and the Dead Variation   5.11     Trad, 40 feet   
Fuel Injected Hardbody   5.12- PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Dos Hermanos   5.12-     Trad   
Let 'er Buck   5.12b     Sport, 100 feet   
Browse More Classics in Donnelly Canyon

Featured Route For Donnelly Canyon
Tom Rose 1/4 of the way up Generic Crack

Generic Crack 5.9+  UT : Moab Area : ... : Donnelly Canyon
As described in the Donnelly Canyon intro, this route is quite obvious. On my first visit to the area, I said, "That must be Supercrack." I was wrong, but this is one striking line.From the parking lot, cross the drainage and head up canyon about 50 yards, then follow an obvious and well built trail up and left to the bottom of the route. The first pitch is 120 feet long so don't forget the trail line. The first 25 feet or so are the awkward...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of Donnelly Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Another fine day at Donnelly Canyon offering a ton of fun.

Another fine day at Donnelly Canyon offering a ton...