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As you stand in the major parking area wondering if you'll be able to find a warm-up with no parties camped on it at the Super Crack, Donnelly, Battle of the Bulge cluster, look northwest. You can't miss seeing the well-traveled splitter Generic Crack. This is the most prominent feature on the Donnelly Canyon wall. Donnelly Canyon is home to several moderate climbs and consequently, hordes of gumbies. However, this is Indian Creek and there are several good lines on this wall.
Look for the major parking lot on the right about 4 miles or so past Newspaper Rock. The wall for Donnelly is the one on the west that is more or less perpendicular to the road.
27 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Donnelly Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Donnelly Canyon:
Binou's Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch
Chocolate Corner 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Generic Crack 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Thing 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
5.10 Corner 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 80'
Elephant Man 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Drainpipe 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
The Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
The Naked and Dead 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad
Unknown Pod Climb. 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Mr. Peanut 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Unknown 5.10+ (left of Naked and the Dead) 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Sleeve of Wizard 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 105'
Naked and the Dead Variation 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, 40'
Twitterpated 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, 70'
Dos Hermanos 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Fuel Injected Hardbody 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Let 'er Buck 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 100'
Ocean Negro 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Half Man, Half Alligator Shark 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Trad, 80'
Featured Route For Donnelly Canyon
Generic Crack 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a UT : Moab Area : ... : Donnelly Canyon
As described in the Donnelly Canyon intro, this route is quite obvious. On my first visit to the area, I said, "That must be Supercrack." I was wrong, but this is one striking line.From the parking lot, cross the drainage and head up canyon about 50 yards, then follow an obvious and well built trail up and left to the bottom of the route. The first pitch is 120 feet long so don't forget the trail line. The first 25 feet or so are the awkward crux of the route, then you're in hand jam heaven...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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