Eye of the Newt 

FA:  James Fusten, Mike Wood, and Davin Lindy Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10 [details] Length:  2 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II Views: 111 page views Submitted By: Brad Brandewie on Jul 31, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Matt Pickren in the stem-box on the first pitch of...

Description 

This route follows the obvious crack system on the sw side of the tower and finishes in the notch between the twin summits.

The climbing is engaging and stays on solid rock for the most part. The two belays are bolted.

Pitch One - Follow a right facing corner system past a big ledge and through a fun stem-box. Continue to the base of a low-angle v-slot below a large roof. 5.10

Pitch Two - Follow the crack out and over the roof and continue to the notch passing some loose rock near the top. 5.10

Location 

See map on Hell Roaring Canyon Page.

Protection 

2 sets of cams to 3 Camalot
1 set of nuts
A couple long runners

Photos of Eye of the Newt Slideshow

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Matt above the roof on the second pitch.