The Warlock as seen from the rim of Hell Roaring C...
Description
The Warlock is a proud, freestanding, wingate tower on the south side of Hell Roaring Canyon. At 350 feet, this is one of the bigger towers in the Moab area and should not be missed by those who enjoy this type of remote, adventure climbing.
It was first climbed by Ron Olevsky, Dave Mondeau, and Dale Kruse in April of 1985. Since then, only two lines are known to have been added. Mike Pennings and Dave Medara climbed a new route on the sw face in ‘95 and Matt, Sam and I added another line in ‘07.
A worthy weekend for the tower baggers out there would be to camp on the rim and climb all three towers in the area. If you were fast, you could climb them all in a day.
Getting There
See directions on the Hell Roaring Canyon page.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Warlock:
Wings of Leather 5.11 C0 PG13 Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 350 feet, Grade II