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The Warlock

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Wings of Leather 

The Warlock

Submitted By: Brad Brandewie on Jul 30, 2009
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard
Views: 502 page views

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The Warlock as seen from the rim of Hell Roaring C...


Description 

The Warlock is a proud, freestanding, wingate tower on the south side of Hell Roaring Canyon. At 350 feet, this is one of the bigger towers in the Moab area and should not be missed by those who enjoy this type of remote, adventure climbing.

It was first climbed by Ron Olevsky, Dave Mondeau, and Dale Kruse in April of 1985. Since then, only two lines are known to have been added. Mike Pennings and Dave Medara climbed a new route on the sw face in ‘95 and Matt, Sam and I added another line in ‘07.

A worthy weekend for the tower baggers out there would be to camp on the rim and climb all three towers in the area. If you were fast, you could climb them all in a day.


Getting There 

See directions on the Hell Roaring Canyon page.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Warlock:
Wings of Leather   5.11 C0 PG13     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 350 feet, Grade II   
Browse More Classics in The Warlock

Photos of The Warlock Slideshow Add Photo
Matt and me near the top of the jug back to the canyon rim.<br /><br />This area is worth considering if the weather is good but there is still some snow on the ground. On this day, there were several inches of snow in the shade but the base of the towers and the routes were bone dry.

Matt and me near the top of the jug back to the ca...

Looking up at the Pennings/Medara route which they named 'Dude, That's Not Funny'.<br /><br />This beginning of this route looks extremely spicy!

Looking up at the Pennings/Medara route which they...