If this isn't the North Face route described in Desert Rock III, then I don't know what it is. It IS, however, an "obvious route on the north side of the tower" (as stated in the book). And it's easy.
Climb up a short 4th class section to a large ledge. Make a couple easy moves (these can be protected by a cam and/or a sling around a horn if desired) to the first of five drilled fixed/drilled pitons. A few of the pins stick out, but some of them may have tie-off slings on them. Climb C1 to the top.
Location
This route is on the north side (the side that faces away from the parking lot/campsite) of the tower.
Protection
5 draws/slings. One cam (green Camalot?) and a sling for the free climbing.
Not the North Face route. My buddy Joe and I did this route a couple years back.
The reason the angles are sticking out is that they were some sort of Cassin baby angle and they were a bit too big for the hole.
There are routes all over this thing.
We started on the other side, towards the right end of the formation and wound our way around the formation.
Didn't even know this thing had a name.
Good to do when you are drunk as it's a short hop from the parking lot. Fun stuff.
Jeremy
By Joe Forrester From: Charlottesville, VA Mar 22, 2009
Wow, I never thought anyone would go back and do this one! It is fun though, especially with OE as company. Jer and I did this one back in March 2007, Jer took the first pitch and I did the second. I believe this was what got us interested in using beaks.
Wow! thanks for putting this up tristan, this is rad. I thought no one knew this tower even existed. You should put up H.J. Pinnacle and High Roller too...if you can find them :) (if you haven't already, that is)
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