Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
The Oracle
Show routes:
Select route...
Beaking In Tongues 
Fantasia 

Beaking In Tongues 

5.8 A4

   

FA: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett, Dave Levine April 1997
Type: Aid
Consensus: 5.8 A4 [details]
Length: 7 pitches, 700 feet, Grade VI
Views: 996 page views

Submitted By: Joe Forrester on Jan 14, 2008


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Here we are on pitch 3.


Description 

Pitch one - 20 feet of mud manteling leads to a #1 pecker placement. Beaks are interspersed with some good cam placements (A3).(140')
Pitch two - More mud groveling up and left. You pretty much are following the splitter(A2).(100')
Pitch three - Again, more splitter mud leads up and left. I had to back clean a fair bit of this pitch(A2+).(140')
Pitch four - Mud and crack left for the last time(A3)(60').
Pitch five - Traverse right on improbable #1 beaks and tipped out #4 and #5 camalots until you get to a beak seam leading up to anchors that are hidden by a bulge.(A3+)
Pitch six - More #1 beaking to the saddle (A4)
Pitch seven - Two 15' pendulums right lead to the large muddy crack that leads to the summit. The rope drag is absolutely horrible.(5.8 A3) 180'

Descent: Rappel the route. We added an extra bolt at the third rappel station.


Location 

Hike the Fishers Trail around past Cottontail. After the metal stairs, hike up the yellow ridge that drops down between the south side of echo and the oracle. Hike up pretty high before cutting out right to the base of the climb.


Protection 

Beaks, beaks and more beaks. If you don't bring beaks on this route, you are foolish. For most of the pitches the largest cam you need is a number 3 camalot. However, there are two pitches where we found a #4 and #5 camalot to be pretty essential. Other than that, just bring the standard fishers aid jingus.



Photos of Beaking In Tongues Slideshow Add Photo
A bomber equalized piece

A bomber equalized piece

On pitch five, getting ready to head off into the void of #1 beaks.

On pitch five, getting ready to head off into the ...

View from the route

View from the route

Joe on pitch 1

Joe on pitch 1

The route as well as a good visual of the "yellow" ridge you hike up to get to the base of the route. Far left of photo is the start of Brer Rabbit on Cottontail.

The route as well as a good visual of the "yellow"...

Bomber!!!

Bomber!!!

Pitch 2???

Pitch 2???

Starting pitch 2??? Can't remember cuz I was drinking.

Starting pitch 2??? Can't remember cuz I was drink...

This photo was taken by Riley over on the Kingfisher. We are at the notch me thinks???

This photo was taken by Riley over on the Kingfish...

Another Riley photo taken from the Kingfisher.

Another Riley photo taken from the Kingfisher.


Comments on Beaking In Tongues Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben Kiessel
Jan 15, 2008

Thanks for posting! Your trip report on supertopo was very entertaining.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=48883>>>>>
Nice Job.

By JeremyA
Feb 8, 2008

BTW. Some larger angles and some z pins to stack were nice to have. This is an AWESOME ROUTE!!! GO DO IT!!!!

Jeremy