Route topo (picturing Dan Russell on top of Lizard...
Description
Begin on the southwest side (the parking lot side) and follow a 5.7 crack/face up about 25 feet to a flake. Place a #4 cam here if needed. Move up and a little right to gain the right end of the large, obvious flake splitting the tower just beneath the summit overhang. Use a long runner to sling a horn here, then proceed straight up on overhanging jugs to a 2 bolt/1 drilled pin anchor. Mantle (yeah...).
The rock quality is good, and can be trusted for the most part.
Protection
Bring a #4 cam and a long runner to protect the crux moves.
There is another variation to this route which is fun. Instead of going straight up from the big flake near the top, traverse the flake left until it runs out. Stand up and there is an old(not very trustworthy), hidden bolt. Then climb straight up from the bolt on steep jugs to the top. Still about 5.8.
And yet another variation. Stand atop the right side of the flake, bearhug/grope a slopey bulge to the right and traverse right into a bowl. Follow a ledge halfway around the spire to the right (NE side, away from the parking), pull up enough slack to mantle and gain the top (about 5.6/7 move to gain summit). Don't even think of falling off the backside mantle though as you will spiral all around the tower on your way back to that slung flake.
My partner was able to place a long sling and a #2 camalot (backing each other up) near the top of the right facing flake where the lower crack/flake climbing ends just prior to the face moves. You can also put a #4 camalot behind the upper flake before making your summit moves (a 4.5 might work too). Feel around for good holds on top. The bolts/pin on top look a little manky - tied-off bolts don't inspire confidence.
Too short, and the texture of the rock is like a cheese grater. The exposure over on the right side was fun, though. An OK route, but not terribly indicative of what I think of when I think of Fisher Towers climbing.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Aug 11, 2006
Probably most people's first introduction to climbing in the Fishers. Nothing to write home about, but will provide the first-timer with a general sense of what to expect on the bigger routes. Plus, it's an easy "tower" to tick.
Instead of going straight up at the top of the tower, we followed Cameron Burns description and traversed right after standing on the big flake. It is a bit runout but easy. Once on the ledge, getting to the summit proved to be the crux (5.8) as there are no positive holds on top. Luckily there is a nice slot for a .5 Camalot that protects this move. My photo shows what I described.
By toddgordon From: Joshua Tree, California May 2, 2007
I did this climb with Lori Graf in the early 1980's... I got scared. I believe this climb even today is still frightening people, isn't it? The bolts were sheit too.