Stolen Chimney 

Amazing route, justifiably popular. The only real loose rock is on the 5.easy start of the first pitch and at places in the chimney (which is amazing, best chimney I've done, and more like 5.7-). I am pretty sure the chimney is longer than 90 feet, and it is definitely a double-rope rap to the top of the first pitch. Make sure to squeeze through the hole under the chockstone at the end of the chimney, it will remind your partner of all the beer he drank the night before.

Great climb! One of the best. Be careful; last time I did this I cracked (loudly!) a rib while manouvering my fat carcass onto the diving board. Finished the route but could not climb again (or sneeze) for weeks. Descent tip: If you have two 60 meter ropes, you can rappel from the big ledge at the top of the chimney all the way to the ground, into an alcove left of the first pitch. This rappel is about 57-odd meters, so be careful!

The best method for getting onto the diving board on the last pitch is the "jump 'n' hump" method (self explanatory). As in similar exercises, finess not force will bring about the most pleasing results.

You can do this climb in 2 pitches if you use a 60 meter rope and scramble the ledgy initial section of P1. The first pitch would be a very long link-up of the chimney with both bolt ladders, however this does present a lot of rope drag if you're trying to free the second bolt ladder. After the ascent (the first time on it, we did the standard 5 pitches and 4 rappels), we were able to rap (2 60-M ropes) all the way from the "sidewalk" down to a stance left of the first pitch. From there it was an easy scramble back to the packs, making for a fast round-trip.

Yes, the rock is a bit crumbly, but the moves on every pitch were suprisingly, really fun and somewhat thought-provoking. I can't say that any of them really seemed to be 5.11, though, but erosion may have something to do with that.

Hope I didn't sound too cavalier in the last comment. Just to clarify, the stance where the rappel ends and the ensuing scramble are low-5th class-ish; if you felt comfortable scrambling the first 5.4 section, they shouldn't be a problem.

Here is my suggestion, but this may not work so well if you want to free the final bolt ladder:

Pitch 1 - Climb the easy 5th class and the bolt ladder. Pitch 2 - Climb the whole chimney AND climb past the anchors at the huge appealing belay ledge. Finish this pitch by climbing the crack and the 2nd bolt ladder. Pitch 3 - The corkscrew

This puts you at the sidewalk in 2 pitches. The rope drag on the pitch 2 could get bad, but I try not to use much gear in the chimney to eliminate the drag. Also, I'll clip the anchors on the big big belay ledge and run a LONG runner before climbing to the final bolt ladder.

This may not be preferred by some, but it works for me.

Here's an interesting piece of information:

Jimmy Dunn has done Ancient Art so many times, he now FREE SOLOS --and-- DOWNCLIMBS the route!

Keep that in mind next time you're rapping the route or aiding the bolt ladders.

I would suggest to take a very light rack. The climbing is easy and the gear is only where you need it. Take a set of medium and large stoppers, and #1,#2,#3 cams. Maybe add a few hexes or tricams if you are timid. Take only 4 QDs and maybe 6 shoulder length runners. You can also just take runners and triple up 4 of them for the bolt ladders. Somewhat of a casual route with fun climbing. The crux sections are short and easy to pull through if need be. The drilled pins on the ladders are close together so a fall onto any of them should hold. The second bolt ladder has a newer second bolt which gives some confidence if you are trying to free it. Surely an unforgettable summit. Awesome. Casey Bernal

Also- Does anyone know how long the summit block has been loose? I was noticing that if the block was pulled off could possibly cut the summit anchors. yikes be careful

When seconding the final pitch, be careful not to have the belay rope run directly to the summit anchors. During lowering, this puts considerable sideways force on the summit block. Perhaps it is solid but I had a frightening vision of the whole thing toppling. Clip the rope to the summit anchors to you when you head to the diving board, then clip it to the anchor near here so that the rope pulls straight down on the summit anchors (my recommendation anyway).

3 stars for the position and craziness but 1 for rock quality.

I felt the first BL and last were similar in grade and easy to clip up.

A really fun route! A single 60m rope will get down from the big ledge with 2 raps.

For the first pitch, it is possible to move left of the popular line to reduce drag. If the leader moves left immediatly from the belay ledge (between a massive boulder and the rock - a bit of a squeez) to a second spacious ledge, the line is directly below the first bolt ladder. Just a thought. Also, after the diving board it is wise to clip the side-by-side pin and bolt with a generous sling to reduce rope drag and lessen the chance of pulling the hardware right out of the rock.

Great route! Seemed less grubby than my ascent 8 years ago, I think all the traffic is cleaning off the route.

I discovered you can avoid the diving board belly flop by climbing below it on the left. Perhaps, however, one should not avoid this classic thrutch move. The move off the diving board is the hardest on the final pitch, I think. It's a balancy stem and there are no positive downward hand holds.

We did both bolt ladders free and I agree, I don't think either of them are 5.11. I think they are both 10ish, with the second seeming a littler harder, although shorter. I'd recommend a screamer QD or two to ease the mind of falling on those bolts. Wow, scary image of Jimmy Dunn down free soloing the second ladder, holy shit!

For good summit shots a wide angle lens is recommended, 28mm or even shorter (35mm equivalent).

I should mention that the diving board avoidance route is possibly more terrifying than the diving board belly flop. At least, there is no pro and potential for a monster swinging fall on lead if a foothold crumbles. However it is probably only 5.6. For the final pitch itself, the leader need only take a long sling or double (as mentioned above) plus a couple QD's and maybe one regular sling. Having no fear of heights also helps.

Super fun route and super busy. Be prepared for lots of other parties and don't be a jerk when sharing the route. On the last pitch, the 2nd bolt you clip (ignoring the old belay at the base of the diving board)looked pretty manky too me, but with the advise of the party before us, I backed it up a #3 camalot. It inspired a little more confidence. There are lots of drilled angles and bolts at the last belay. Be advised to position yourself carefully when belaying the leader on the last pitch on the off chance that they take a ride off the diving board.

Some Beta for Someone who has never climbed the route and is planning an ascent:

• Very Sandy, Very Dirty = Serious*P1 Easy yet Sandy feet + R. If you are free climbing P2 5.10+ or 5.11- a belay can be set up 10 ft below the first bolt, 1"-2" Cams, Cordelette Handy.*P2 Stemming very well protected for free climbing, easy aiding.P3 I used a set of double cams, 3 hand size pieces, up to a 3.5" piece and did not sew it up, but hey Jimmy Dunn solos it so whatever you are comfortable with, I suggest 6-8 shoulder slings due to rope drag. I thought it felt like 5.8 range, typical desert funk. Descent Gear, dirty climbing.P4 - 3.5" or 3" piece getting to first bolt, first bolt old star bolt, 5.2 move to clip second bolt which is new. Felt like 5.10+ face climbing very well protected again easily aided. I left all my gear at the top of P3 except 3.5" piece, some long slings and 6-8 quicks (and camera of course!).P5 - Walk the plank, sling the Head (optional), clip the first bolt(drilled angle?) then do some 5.9 climbing to old bolt, probably would not hold a high impact fall, but simply protects you for an easy step across move, clip another drilled angle over the lip, mantel or high step over and climb a move or two to the slings, clip or thread the slings then head for the coolest/weirdest summit I have ever been on.

Last time I did this route, we did it in two pitches. We soled up to the first bolt ladder and set up a belay there. Then we blasted all the way to the sidewalk. The first set of bolts is 5.9 and the second set is 5.10ish.

It's possible to rap with a single 60-meter rope. Rap from the big ledge about two thirds down the chimney to an anchor and from there rap to the ground, just barely.

Wicked crazy. Summit pitch looks supreme, although it is wiggy in the rain. We were being threatened by storm clouds all day, I thought I was home free when I started the last pitch, but NO, halfway across the walkway --RAIN--it sucked real bad. Take a REAL light rack on this climb, you only need to protect one pitch (100ft.), I used all active pro----don't even take stoppers, you won't need them. Also the end of the chimney pitch is so skinny you'll most likely get stuck if you fall, so you really don't need to protect it. Also, some guidebooks I read said there were 5 pitches. I THINK you could make it to the third set of anchors (on the walkway before the corckscrew)from the ground with good ropework. (a 60M MIGHT make it, but I don't wanna try w/o a 70m) Anyone done this from dirt to walkway?Anywho, wicked good climb, lots of fun, anyone would have fun on this!!!!!

This is a great climb. I will do it again and again and again!!!

Killer tower route in range for most competent trad leaders. Definitely think 5.11 is a bit over-the-top. Maybe hard 5.10, and only a couple of moves while freeing the bolt ladders. Someone commented on using a screamer or two if freeing the bolt ladders... no doubt that would have made it less sphincter constricting, they're pretty manky. Otherwise, not a bad day out even in hideous winds which drove sand into every crevice of my body.

FFA: Keith Reynolds & Burton Moomaw, North Carolina water-groove specialists. If these guys had put it up there'd be one bolt on each of those A0 gutters...

Just climbed this last weekend. 1.5 hours from rope-up to coiling the rope after the rappel. There is no climbing harder than 5.9+ on this route and the bolt ladders are really not scary at all! The crux, for me was the first move up the spire after clipping the first piton. Why is there a belay at the base of the spire??

I'd say that the rating is very dependent on height, particularly the second bolt ladder. I found it easy (being tall) and my partner had a much harder time. The initial bolt ladder was similar in difficulty but both of us climbed it very differently.

We were a bit worried to hear that the first of the 3 bolts in the second ladder was an old one but it turns out you don't really make any hard moves before clipping the 2nd bolt (the new one).

The scary part is the final spire - I'd take both a #2 and #3 camalot - they both go about the same place but in this rock I'm of the "two nuts are better than one" theory.

All of the cruxes were very clean. A bit of mud in the chimney but not insecure at all.

[Hey - I can't seem to get the A0 to go away in the rating when I submit my rating! Call technical support!!! Oh - and tell your spell checker that camalot is a real word ...]

How's this route for the second? Namely coming off the summit back to the belay.. Isn't there the opportunity for a huge swing? :-)

The second lowers to the sidewalk and creeps back across. You wouldn't want to fall off the sidewalk in either direction, but you would have to actively try to come off.

Its not a good route to take a rank beginner up, but any climber who is OK with exposure should be fine following it.

When lowering the second off of the top back to the sidewalk, have the second clip a draw to the rope (the belayers side of the rope) and back to their harness. The belayer can keep the rope tight until the second reaches the sidewalk. As the second begins to traverse back, the belayer feeds out slack allowing the second to walk across the sidewalk while hanging onto the belayer side of the rope, without being pulled but still being somewhat supported. If they are at all nervous about swinging, I found this to be the best method.

Next time I'm up there, I need to have more jump and less hump on that diving board move. :-) The route was fast and fantastic. I don't get why anyone would want to count the sidewalk as a pitch. It seems like belaying from the diving board would be awkward and slightly unnerving while the second comes up with feet flailing. Not to mention the photo ops wouldn't be as good.

George wrote ""Perhaps it is solid but I had a frightening vision of the whole thing toppling""

Gosh it sure looks like it could fall over in a few places. I remember seeing a pic in an old climbing magazine of some female climber on the top of this bizarre formation.

Before I climbed the route, I actually had a dream that I broke Ancient Art. In my dream the last pitch was only about 10'. I wrapped my arms around it, crushed it and watched it fall to the floor below. I giggled a bit about that dream when I saw how solid that last pitch really was.

We just climbed this a few weeks ago. Both my partner and I thought the "5.10" piton and bolt ladders were really only about 5.8+ or maybe 5.9, way easier than any of the typical desert 5.10 splitters, but it's face climbing which we're more use to. The climb overall is quite solid, as most of the loose stuff has been cleared out by prior ascents. Enjoy!

We did this route September 17-2007. Wild exposure on the last pitch. If you have a 70M rope, you can rap the route with that instead of taking 2-60M's. 1 set of cams, 1 set of nuts, and some trad draws is the rack we used. My more detailed trip report is here

Descent Beta: 2 60m ropes tied together will get you to the ground from the spacious ledge above the chimney.

I submitted a picture about a two years ago that shows how the do the rap with two 60m ropes. From the big ledge above the chimney at the top of Pitch 2 it is possible to rap with 2 ropes outside the chimney. However, it's important that you rap outside the chimney otherwise your ropes will get stuck. This brings you to the ground just left of the start. (SEE BETA PICTURE ABOVE)